Quantcast
Channel: Black Shirt Archives » BAMF Style
Viewing all 56 articles
Browse latest View live

Magic City: Ben the Butcher in Black

$
0
0
Danny Huston as Ben "the Butcher" Diamond in "...And Your Enemies Closer", episode 2.07 of Magic CIty (2012-2013)

Danny Huston as Ben “the Butcher” Diamond in “…And Your Enemies Closer”, episode 2.07 of Magic City (2012-2013)

Vitals

Danny Huston as Ben “the Butcher” Diamond, sadistic and volatile Miami gangster

Miami Beach, spring 1959

Series: Magic City
Episodes:
– “Castles Made of Sand” (Episode 1.03, dir: Ed Bianchi, aired April 20, 2012)
– “Time and Tide” (Episode 1.08, dir: Ed Bianchi, aired June 1, 2012)
– “Crossroads” (Episode 2.04, dir: Ed Bianchi, aired July 12, 2013)
– “World in Changes” (Episode 2.05, dir: Simon Cellan Jones, aired July 19, 2013)
– “…And Your Enemies Closer” (Episode 2.07, dir: Simon Cellan Jones, aired August 2, 2013)
Creator: Mitch Glazer
Costume Designer: Carol Ramsey

Background

In these waning weeks of spring, some folks may be anxious to get an early start to summer fun, so light up a Habanas Partagas cigar and head for a warm weekend retreat – or at least a Sunday in the sun – in the spirit of Magic City‘s baddest antagonist.

What’d He Wear?

Ben the Butcher’s bright pastels often disguised his villainy and blended him in among the neon sights and scenes of atomic age Miami Beach, but he would also let his dark side show with shirts like this black “pocketless guayabera”.

Black isn’t the best color for a sunny afternoon in the tropics, but the lightweight linen material and its roomy size ensures the dark fabric’s greater breathability under the hot sun.

How could a gangster like this not wear black?

How could a gangster like this not wear black?

One of the defining aspects of a guayabera is the presence of alforzas, the pleated vertical strips on the front and back of the shirt. Ben’s shirt has two alforzas down the front of the shirt and a single alforza down the back, all beginning at a button-accented pointed top yoke.

Ben’s shirt isn’t a true guayabera, which supposedly gained its name for the four pockets stitched onto the front by a Cuban seamstress for her husband to carry guayabas in the field. But, like a true guayabera, Ben’s black shirt has a straight hem across the bottom, split by a widely-spaced three-button vent on each side, and is correctly worn untucked.

The details!

(Left) The button-accented pointed yoke above the back alforza on Ben’s shirt.
(Right) The left cufflink and three-button side vent of Ben’s shirt.

When this outfit was auctioned, it was confirmed that this black shirt is indeed a size XL, made by Renato. Renato was one of several manufacturers, including Anto Beverly Hills and Ramon Puig, that made Ben the Butcher’s on-screen pocketless guayabera shirts.

The shirt is styled similarly to Ben’s previously featured baby blue shirt – also made by Renato – with its unbuttoned spread collar, fly front, and squared double (French) cuffs that add a touch of luxury to his leisure garb.

At least three different sets of cuff links are seen with this shirt through the show’s two-season run. Apropos his name, they all feature diamonds. For the shirt’s first appearance during a cabana poker game in “Castles Made of Sand” (1.03), Ben wears a set of large silver squared-framed cuff links with a large diamond suspended in the center.

By the next season, in “Crossroads” (2.04), he is wearing a set of gold rectangles accented with a field of small diamonds, seen above as he holds his cigar. For the rest of the second season, Ben again wears a set of gold rectangle cuff links but with only a single diamond in the center.

Ben's tenure as the feared butcher of Miami Beach sees him wearing several sets of cuff links... always with the signature diamonds to evoke his surname.

Ben’s tenure as the feared butcher of Miami Beach sees him wearing several sets of cuff links… always with the signature diamonds to evoke his surname.

Light-colored linen trousers are a must for any beach-dweller, and Ben’s bottom half is frequently swaddled in cream Brooks Brothers trousers made from 100% Irish linen. The trousers have a zip fly, straight side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms with the inner cuffing visible after his impulsive dip into the pool with Lily.

The trousers worn in “Castles Made of Sand” (1.08) that were included in the aforementioned auction had a size 35 waist and 30 inseam. He wears them with a slim black leather belt that coordinates with his shoes.

Ben's symbolic fountain seems more appropriate than ever during his late nigh frolic with Lily.

Ben’s symbolic fountain seems more appropriate than ever during his late nigh frolic with Lily.

Ben’s leisurely approach to life comes across in his choice of footwear, a pair of black leather bicycle-toe loafers always worn without socks. The shoes have a strap across the vamp with a silver squared buckle, though it’s not the traditional monk strap shoe.

Magic City aficionado and expert Eric J. Tidd, curator of the digital Miramar Playa, owns a pair of Danny Huston’s screen-worn size 44 shoes and has shared a photo confirming that they are the now-discontinued Aldo M-19261 model… still available on Amazon in a variety of sizes for less than $40.

Photo of Danny Huston's screen-worn Aldo loafers courtesy of Eric J. Tidd.

Photo of Danny Huston’s screen-worn Aldo loafers, courtesy of Eric J. Tidd.

Ben’s choice of jewelry is predictable; many associate gold pinky rings like his with classic gangsterdom, and his has a large diamond setting, again calling out his name.

The wristwatch he wears in the first season has a round gold-colored case on a black leather strap with gold non-numeric markers and hands on a black dial.

Easy enough to recreate Ben Diamond's bar, seen behind him. In addition to the big bottle of Gordon's gin (which really hasn't changed its look in decades), pick up a fifth of Scotch and a squat bottle of Drambuie...with those two ingredients, you can mix yourself a Rusty Nail.

Easy enough to recreate Ben Diamond’s bar, seen behind him. In addition to the big bottle of Gordon’s gin (which really hasn’t changed its look in decades), pick up a fifth of Scotch and a squat bottle of Drambuie…with those two ingredients, you can mix yourself a Rusty Nail.

Ben wears a different gold watch in the second season, a Hamilton Electric on a dark brown alligator strap. The major cosmetic difference is the Hamilton’s light silver dial and gold numeric markers.

Ben takes over during Lily's massage in "World in Changes" (2.05)...

Ben takes over during Lily’s massage in “World in Changes” (2.05)…

This is primarily an “indoor” outfit for Ben Diamond, but he does venture outside in “World in Changes” (2.05) to briefly intimidate his wife Lily during a massage. He shields his eyes from the sun – and adds a more menacing, less human element – by wearing his black plastic-framed Victory Suntimer “Palm Beach” wayfarer-style sunglasses with dark gray lenses.

...but his methods leave her less than satisfied.

…but his methods leave her less than satisfied.

This same model of sunglasses, VCS 752, is still available from the Victory Optical Collection site for $210.

How to Get the Look

Danny Huston as Ben "the Butcher" Diamond in "Castles Made of Sand", episode 1.03 of Magic City (2012-2013)

Danny Huston as Ben “the Butcher” Diamond in “Castles Made of Sand”, episode 1.03 of Magic City (2012-2013)

If you’re going to wear black at the beach, do it like Ben Diamond: choose a summer-weight fabric like linen or lightweight cotton and pair it with contrasting cream trousers and a meanacing smirk.

  • Black lightweight linen/cotton “pocketless guayabera” shirt with spread collar, covered front fly placket, 3-button side vents, double/French cuffs, and quadruple-pleat alforza strips down each front panel with decorative buttons
  • Cream linen flat front trousers with belt loops, zip fly, straight/on-seam side pockets, button-through jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Slim black leather belt
  • Black leather bicycle-toe loafers with silver-toned buckle straps
  • Gold rectangular diamond-studded cuff links
  • Gold pinky ring with set-in diamond
  • Gold wristwatch with a dark leather strap
  • Victory Optical Collection Suntimer “Palm Beach” VCS 752 black-framed wayfarer-style sunglasses with dark gray lenses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the series.

The Quote

One more word and I’ll be wearing your blue fucking eyes as cuff links.



Chili’s Black Leather Jacket in Get Shorty

$
0
0

John Travolta as Chili Palmer in Get Shorty (1995)

Vitals

John Travolta as Chili Palmer, Miami loan shark and aspiring filmmaker

Los Angeles, Winter 1995

Film: Get Shorty
Release Date: October 20, 1995
Director: Barry Sonnenfeld
Costume Designer: Betsy Heimann

Background

Today’s Mafia Monday post explores one of the many delightfully idiosyncratic characters from the wonderful world of Elmore Leonard.

Miami loan shark Chili Palmer is effortlessly capable at his job, but – like many people – when a job is too easy, it becomes tedious. Bored with the incompetence of psychotic mobsters in his orbit like Ray “Bones” Barboni (Dennis Farina), Chili embraces the opportunity to go west in search of a delinquent dry cleaner.

Already a fan of movies as his poster of The Thin Man in his Miami office suggested, our charismatic loan shark takes to Hollywood like a duck to water, shaking up the town with his syndicate sensibilities. Chili has found his calling, but his dangerous line of work and true appreciation for classics like Rio Bravo and A Touch of Evil make him the perfect foil to spineless producers like Harry Zimm (Gene Hackman) and eccentric actors like Martin Weir (Danny DeVito).

What’d He Wear?

Like most of Elmore Leonard’s work, there’s no time wasted in exposition when we could be getting straight to the story. In this case, it’s a black leather jacket that sets everything in motion:

Do you see a black leather jacket, fingertip length like the one Pacino wore in Serpico? ‘Cause if you don’t, you owe me $379.

Setting aside the fact that Al Pacino wore no such jacket in Serpico, this line alone tells us three things about Chili Palmer: he’s assertive, he appreciates movies, and he’s [relatively] principled.

Also, it’s worth noting that Travolta is still playing characters who strive to sartorially emulate Pacino two decades after his hotheaded Tony Manero in Saturday Night Fever memorably used Pacino as inspiration when getting ready for a night on the town. Interestingly, the line about Serpico’s leather jacket comes straight from Leonard’s original novel.

Chili retrieves his jacket from Ray Bones that same day in Miami, but the jacket itself doesn’t make an appearance on his person until he’s at a screening of Touch of Evil in L.A. a few nights later.

Chili's leather jacket is cool, but I'm all about Karen rocking that vintage Lakers tee like a pro. The Randy Pfund era was a bold time to be a Lakers fan.

Chili’s leather jacket is cool, but I’m all about Karen rocking that vintage Lakers tee like a pro. The Randy Pfund era was a bold time to be a Lakers fan.

Chili wears a black leather jacket, accurately described as “fingertip length,” styled like a single-breasted suit jacket with long edge-stitched notch lapels and a ventless back. The jacket’s low stance two-button front is split by a horizontal seam above the second button.

Chili always manages to keep cool, making him far more deserving of the cool leather jacket than the excitable Ray Bones.

Chili always manages to keep cool, making him far more deserving of the cool leather jacket than the excitable Ray Bones.

The jacket has a welted breast pocket and a jetted hip pocket on each side that sits on the horizontal seam that traverses the front just above the second button. The shoulders appear to be padded and slightly too wide for Travolta’s frame with the roped sleeveheads a few inches off his shoulder.

Plenty of replicas for this popular jacket, in varying degrees of accuracy, exist online such as this $189 example from New American Jackets. To track one down that’s closer to Travolta’s screen-worn jacket, try to find that distinctive horizontal stitch above the second button as well as the wide lapel notches. Jackets like Chili’s would often be marketed as a “leather blazer” today, such as this stylistically similar lambskin jacket from Koza Leathers.

A movie fan like Chili would be tickled to know just how popular replicas of his jacket are.

A movie fan like Chili would be tickled to know just how popular replicas of his jacket are.

The Chili Palmer of Leonard’s 1990 novel often wore suits and ties; one outfit in particular is described as a muted dark blue pinstripe suit with a tab-collared blue shirt and rust-colored tie.

The cinematic Chili played by Travolta eschews dress shirts, in favor of exclusively wearing long-sleeve soft knit polos in dark, solid colors. This Chili also reflects the ’90s trend of layering black on black, a risky sartorial option as not all blacks are as similar as they seem. Chili goes a safer route, as his leather jacket and soft cotton polo nicely contrast each other due to the comfortably different material.

Chili’s black soft cotton knit long-sleeve polo appears to be the same one he wore with his black suit in Miami and his gray suit in Vegas. It has a large collar and four black plastic buttons that he always wears fastened to the neck.

Chili takes a drag from one of his Gitanes cigarettes as all of his problems appear to be working themselves out.

Chili takes a drag from one of his Gitanes cigarettes as all of his problems appear to be working themselves out.

His untucked polo shirt often covers his black leather belt, which has a gold-toned single-prong buckle. A black leather belt from the production featured on Prop Bay gives a closer look at the belt’s edge stitching and the squared buckle with three thin ridges above and below the prong.

Chili wears a pair of black wool flat front trousers with straight side pockets and and plain-hemmed bottoms.

Chili is dragged into action for the film's finale.

Chili is dragged into action for the film’s finale.

Although he appears to be wearing black derbies for the balcony-dangling action sequences in the finale (perhaps so Travolta or his stuntman didn’t lose his shoes), the film makes a point of showing his black alligator loafers as he saunters along the iconic terrazzo stars on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame.

A gangster arrives in Hollywood; no image could better encapsulate the film's plot than the mafioso-evoking alligator loafer stepping on a Walk of Fame star.

A gangster arrives in Hollywood; no single image could better encapsulate the film’s plot than the mafioso-evoking alligator loafer stepping on a Walk of Fame star.

Chili completes his image as the consummate gangster with all yellow gold jewelry to complement his all black clothing.

On the third finger of his right hand, Chili wears a gold ring with a large green stone. On the opposing wrist, he wears a thin gold wristwatch with a rectangular case and a flat bracelet. Quora users have speculated about the watch’s maker, with one Patek Philippe example proposed as the possible watch.

Gene Hackman supposedly said that the scene where Chili recites Touch of Evil's lines while watching it in the theater was one of the most "engaging" things he'd witnessed in a movie. (Source: <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0113161/trivia?item=tr1452856">IMDB</a>)

Gene Hackman supposedly said that the scene where Chili recites Touch of Evil’s lines while watching it in the theater was one of the most “engaging” things he’d witnessed in a movie. (Source: IMDB)

How to Get the Look

All black is a risky look, but Chili Palmer pulls it off with a confidence and contrasts, accenting his leather-centric look with gangster touches like alligator loafers and gold jewelry.

  • Black leather jacket with edge-stitched notch lapels, low 2-button front, welted breast pocket, straight/on-seam jetted hip pockets, snap cuffs, and ventless back
  • Black soft cotton knit long-sleeve 4-button polo shirt
  • Black wool flat front trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black edge-stitched leather belt with gold-toned single-prong ridged square buckle
  • Black alligator loafers
  • Black dress socks
  • Thin rectangular yellow gold watch on a flat gold bracelet
  • Gold ring with green stone

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie. It even had the rare approval of Elmore Leonard himself – as reported in the Los Angeles Times in 1995 – and is still considered among the best adaptations of his work.

And speaking of his work… you should definitely grab Leonard’s novel while you’re at it!

The Quote

Now, I’ve been shot at three times before – twice on purpose and once by accident – and I’m still here. And I’m gonna be here for as long as I want to be.

Footnote

Chili Palmer wears similar outfits in the film’s 2005 sequel, Be Cool. One of his outfits from that film was later auctioned, a charcoal suit and a black long-sleeve 3-button cotton-blend polo made by Jhane Barnes, which discontinued its menswear line in 2013.


Rusty’s White Silver Suit in Ocean’s Thirteen

$
0
0

Brad Pitt as Robert “Rusty” Ryan in Ocean’s Thirteen (2007), matching his shoes to his luggage rather than to his belt.

Vitals

Brad Pitt as Robert “Rusty” Ryan, casino heister and hotel manager

L.A. to Vegas, June 2007

Film: Ocean’s Thirteen
Release Date: June 8, 2007
Director: Steven Soderbergh
Costume Designer: Louise Frogley

Background

With Memorial Day in our wake, it’s now sartorially safe to whip out the white suitings from the back of your closet when dressing to impress this summer.

One movie that most influenced my own summer style during my formative years was Ocean’s Thirteen, a celebration of sprezzatura from Al Pacino’s bold business wear to the vivid outfits sported by Bernie Mac. For me, it was Rusty Ryan’s flashy suits and sport jackets that lingered in my mind when eyeing new summer threads.

It takes the flashy confidence of a Brad Pitt type to wear (and pull off) the literally flashy suit worn for his pre-dawn strut across the tarmac as Rusty boards a private plane chartered by Danny Ocean (George Clooney) for the team’s next job, accented by the cool “Not Their Fight” composed for the film’s awesome soundtrack by David Holmes.

This time, it’s personal.

What’d He Wear?

Costume designer Louise Frogley told the Daily Mail in May 2007, just before the release of Ocean’s Thirteen, that “Brad was sure that this time his style for Rusty Ryan had to be cleaner, much more simple – ‘less bling and less shiny-suity,’ as he put it,” though this seems at direct odds with his first on-screen suit, a very shiny white silver suit with a satin finish that gleams brilliantly under the dimly-lit airstrip at night and the Las Vegas morning sun.

Perhaps it’s most indicative that Rusty only wears this suit at the film’s outset, a spiritual success to his shiny gray silk suit in Ocean’s Twelve and only worn before learning the dire situation of his friend Reuben’s health.

The vivid color saturation of Ocean’s Thirteen makes some color identification difficult based on the lighting and treatment of a particular scene, especially with reflective suiting like this. Based on production photos that clearly depict a satin gray finish, I think we’re safest to call this color “white silver.”

The suit jacket is single-breasted with notch lapels that roll to the top of three gold shank buttons, all worn open. High on each of the jacket’s flared sleeve-ends are two smaller gold “kissing” buttons which match the three down the front and help differentiate this suit from a similar silver suit that gets brief screen time later in the movie.

Coffee in hand, Rusty settles in for a brief flight.

Coffee in hand, Rusty settles in for a brief flight.

The jacket has a welted breast pocket and straight flapped hip pockets plus a flapped ticket pocket on the right side. The shoulders are padded with roped sleeveheads, and the back has a single vent.

Rusty’s flat front trousers have a lower-than-traditional rise that reflects his casual nature. Straight pockets are cut along each side seam, and the slightly flared bottoms are finished with plain hems. His ivory leather belt, likely Prada, provides minimal contrast against his suiting, and the squared single-prong gold buckle coordinates with the gold buttons on the front and cuffs of his jacket.

Rusty wears a black dress shirt with a white pinstripe that coordinates with his suit and softens the otherwise stark contrast between the dark shirt and the light, shiny suit. The shirt’s large, tall point collar is worn open as is the next button down the shirt’s plain front. Rusty later wears this same shirt during the film’s climactic con with a charcoal silk suit, more appropriate for a night out in a casino.

If you blew all your money on the suit but you’re still looking for the perfect shirt to channel Rusty’s outfit, this affordable poly/cotton “Onyx Pinstripe Shirt” from Averill’s Sharper Uniforms nails the general look with the pattern and breast pocket… if not the distinctive details like the single cuffs.

Rusty wears the single cuffs unfastened (despite having holes for links), revealing the yellow gold Rolex GMT Master II strapped to his right wrist on a gold Oyster link bracelet.

Rusty consults with the team after landing in Vegas.

Rusty consults with the team after landing in Vegas.

Rusty’s Rolex watch isn’t his only gold accessory as he also wears two rings in addition to the gold pendant on a thin gold necklace around his neck. He wears a thick gold ring on the third finger of his right hand and a smaller gold ring on his left pinky.

Rusty's shiner gleams from the third finger of his right hand.

Rusty’s shiner gleams from the third finger of his right hand.

Brad Pitt is a noted fan of the Oliver Peoples eyewear brand and, in fact, wears a pair of their “Strummer” model aviators in Ocean’s Thirteen. However, the fashion-forward shades he is briefly seen wearing after descending on the Las Vegas tarmac more resemble the Ray-Ban RB 3291 sunglasses that Pitt was spotted wearing on set.

Identified by SunglasssesID.com, Pitt’s Ray-Bans are silver-framed with purple-gray gradient lenses (color code 003/8G). You can still pick up a pair at EyewearOrders.com.

Rusty struts off the plane, immune to the blinding qualities of his suit in the sunlight thanks to his protective shades.

Rusty struts off the plane, immune to the blinding qualities of his suit in the sunlight thanks to his protective shades.

Rusty foregoes matching his shoes to his belt and wears a pair of cognac-colored leather oxfords, likely the same pair that he wears with his other outfits in the film.

How to Get the Look

Brad Pitt and George Clooney on the set of Ocean's Thirteen (2007)

Brad Pitt and George Clooney on the set of Ocean’s Thirteen (2007)

Rusty delivers a fresh and flashy take on the post-Memorial Day white suit with this ensemble anchored by a satin silver bespoke suit and striped black shirt.

  • White silver satin-finished silk suit:
    • Single-breasted jacket with three gold shank buttons, notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets with ticket pocket, two gold shank-buttoned cuffs, and single back vent
    • Flat front medium-low rise trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black pinstripe shirt with tall collar, plain front, breast pocket, and single cuffs
  • Ivory leather belt with squared gold single-prong buckle
  • Cognac brown plain-toe balmorals/oxford shoes
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Ray-Ban RB 3291 silver-framed sunglasses with purple-gray gradient lenses (color code 003/8G)
  • Rolex GMT Master II wristwatch with a yellow gold case, black bezel and dial, and gold “Oyster” link bracelet, worn on right wrist
  • Gold ring with brown stone, worn on right ring finger
  • Gold pinky ring, worn on left pinky
  • Thin gold necklace with a round gold pendant

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie, or even the whole series.


OSS 117’s Black Polo Shirt and Blue Trousers

$
0
0
Jean Dujardin as Hubert Bonisseur de La Bath in OSS 117: Cairo, Nest of Spies (2006)

Jean Dujardin as Hubert Bonisseur de La Bath in OSS 117: Cairo, Nest of Spies (2006)

Vitals

Jean Dujardin as Hubert Bonisseur de La Bath, suave French agent OSS 117

Cairo, Spring 1955

Film: OSS 117: Cairo, Nest of Spies
(French title: OSS 117: Le Caire, nid d’espions)
Release Date: April 19, 2006
Director: Michel Hazanavicius
Costume Designer: Charlotte David
Tailor: Joseph Kergoat

Background

Our debonair protagonist spends most of OSS 117: Cairo, Nest of Spies in one tailored suit or the other, but he briefly dressed down for an adventure in the desert, sporting a black long-sleeve polo shirt reminiscent of Sean Connery’s preferred covert casual wear in James Bond films like Goldfinger and Thunderball.

What’d He Wear?

Hubert’s black long-sleeve polo shirt appears to be a luxurious lightweight silk or silk-like knit material. Hubert buttons the bottom two of the three black plastic buttons, leaving the top button undone and allowing the large self-collar to sit flat. The set-in sleeves have plain, elasticized cuffs that Hubert rolls partway up his arm. (One could take issue with the wisdom of Hubert’s decision to wear black silk on a hot day in the desert, but it’s hardly the most problematic of his decisions…)

OSS 117

The “early Bond” look isn’t limited to Hubert’s Goldfinger-esque shirt. His sky blue flat front trousers also recall the pants worn by Connery in his first 007 outing, Dr. No, during an expedition on the island of Crab Key. Hubert’s untucked shirt mostly covers his waist so we can’t tell if his trousers have side adjuster tabs à la Bond or are worn with a belt, but they certainly have side pockets, jetted back pockets, and taper down to the short break plain-hemmed bottoms.

Hubert’s beige-colored suede loafers coordinates with his sandy surroundings and appear to be worn sockless. The soles are brown leather.

Hubert springs into action.

Hubert springs into action.

Hubert’s watch is a vintage-inspired Tissot Heritage 150 Chronograph, introduced in a limited run celebrating Tissot’s 150th anniversary in 2003 when it retailed for $3,300. Though technically anachronistic for a film set in the mid-1950s, the classic look of the Heritage 150 Chronograph with its stainless 39.5mm case, dark brown alligator band, and silver dial (with three sub-dials and date window) serves its purpose as evoking the look of a timepiece that would have been worn by both dashing bon vivants and rugged adventurers alike.

Note Hubert's Tissot Heritage 150 Chronograph, discussed above.

Note Hubert’s Tissot Heritage 150 Chronograph, discussed above.

How to Get the Look

Whether intentionally or not, OSS 117: Cairo, Nest of Spies pays homage to Sean Connery’s casual wear in early entries of the James Bond series, mixing 007’s black and blue to create a comfortably debonair outfit for an afternoon in the sun.

  • Black silk long-sleeve polo shirt with large collar, three black buttons, and set-in sleeves with elasticized cuffs
  • Sky blue flat front trousers with side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Beige suede loafers with brown soles
  • Tissot Heritage 150 Chronograph T66.1.712.31 with stainless 39.5mm case, silver dial (with three sub-dials), and dark brown alligator leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.


Bond Style – Dark Herringbone Tweed in Diamonds are Forever

$
0
0
Sean Connery as James Bond in Diamonds are Forever (1971)

Sean Connery as James Bond in Diamonds are Forever (1971)

Vitals

Sean Connery as James Bond, British government agent

South America, Spring 1971

Film: Diamonds are Forever
Release Date: December 17, 1971
Director: Guy Hamilton
Wardrobe Master: Ray Beck
Tailor: Anthony Sinclair

Background

Making mud pies, 007?

Did you know that today, August 19, is National Potato Day? In Diamonds are Forever, James Bond’s hunt for vengeance after the events of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service leads him to an undisclosed location in search of his enemy, Ernst Stavro Blofeld, who has taken to cloning himself in order to form a group of decoy doubles to distract 007. Part of the pre-operation procedure consists of a volunteer decoy resting in an 80°F mud bath (while armed with a revolver, for some reason), and that’s where National Potato Day comes in.

Bert Luxford, an uncredited assistant in the film’s special effects department, recalled that the “mud” was created with a mix of mashed potato powder and cocoa. Much to the dismay of the cast and crew, the mashed potatoes began to “cook” after 24 hours under the hot studio lights, creating an unbearably awful smell.

(Credit must be given to Bill Morgan, the uncredited stunt performer who found himself submerged in the mashed potato mixture in the “role” of Blofeld’s double.)

You tell us, Sir Sean. Was it worth a million bucks to come back and stick your hand into a vat of rancid mashed potatoes?

You tell us, Sir Sean. Was it worth a million bucks to come back and stick your hand into a vat of rancid mashed potatoes?

Today also happens to be the birthday of Connery’s Diamonds are Forever co-star Jill St. John, born August 19, 1940.

In other Sean Connery news, less than week remains until the legendary Scottish actor’s 87th birthday…so prepare to see a little more of Sir Sean on BAMF Style in the coming days!

What’d He Wear?

Following a horribly sexist opening sequence that finds James Bond wearing a considerably dated beige-patterned terrycloth shirt while throttling a woman with her own bikini top, the setting shifts to Blofeld’s South American hideout where 007 is disguised in doctor garb over that most timeless of country garments: a tweed jacket.

Bond’s brown-and-black herringbone tweed sports jacket incorporates some design elements from the Norfolk jacket, a classic piece of English sportswear. The unique lapel is shaped like a traditional notch lapel but with a dog-eared self-tab extending from the top portion of the collar to fill the gap, reducing the notch itself to a short slanted vent.

The mixed brown and black fabric gives the jacket a dark muted brown effect that both flatters Connery and coordinates nicely to his black shirt and trousers.

The mixed brown and black fabric gives the jacket a dark muted brown effect that both flatters Connery and coordinates nicely to his black shirt and trousers.

The lapels roll over the top of the three brown leather buttons on the single-breasted front with two smaller leather buttons on the end of each cuff. The wide shoulders have roped sleeveheads. There is no breast pocket but there are two large bellows-style patch pockets on the hips with a straight flap to close.

"Who, me?"

“Who, me?”

Connery set the gold standard for Bond in tweed with the first appearance of his brown barleycorn hacking jacket in Goldfinger, and he goes on to wear not one but two tweed jackets for his return in Diamonds are Forever.

Both this tweed jacket and the more mustard-toned check jacket he later wears in Las Vegas are detailed with the half-belted back, bellows pockets, and leather buttons consistent with Norfolk and half-Norfolk jacket elements. (Neither jacket has the “action back” pleats found on many Norfolk jackets, but the lack of said pleats doesn’t disqualify the terminology.) The back of the jacket is split with double vents that rise to the half-belted waist.

Dr. Bond administers to his patient.

Dr. Bond administers to his patient.

Under his tweed jacket, Connery returns to his preferred nighttime tactical garment as seen in Goldfinger and Thunderball: a black knit long-sleeve polo shirt. The shirt has three black buttons at the collar and elasticized cuffs that provide little resistance when Bond hikes up his sleeves for arm-diving into Blofeld’s mashed potatoes. (We also see that Bond isn’t wearing a watch!)

It ain't a PPK, but it'll do in a pinch.

It ain’t a PPK, but it’ll do in a pinch.

And speaking of guns… Bond wears his usual tan leather shoulder holster strapped under his left arm with a wide blue nylon strap. Less usual, however, is the fact that Bond seems to have forewent wearing an actual firearm in his holster in favor of a mousetrap-like device used to snare the hand of the hapless henchman that Blofeld sends to retrieve Bond’s pistol.

Q branch comes through with another winner.

Q branch comes through with another winner.

Bond wears black flat front trousers with slightly flared plain-hemmed bottoms over his black leather ankle boots. We don’t see the waist line of his trousers due to the jacket, but the fact that we know Bond is wearing his holster coupled with his usual practice of securing his holster to the buttons of his side adjusters leads to the conclusion that these black trousers are fixed with the same “Daks top” three-button side adjuster tabs as on most of Connery’s tailored trousers since Dr. No.

007

The color treatment in this publicity photo gives Bond the appearance of wearing all black clothing, as Sean Connery's Bond had previously done for covert assignments in Goldfinger and Thunderball.

The color treatment in this publicity photo gives Bond the appearance of wearing all black clothing, as Sean Connery’s Bond had previously done for covert assignments in Goldfinger and Thunderball.

How to Get the Look

Sean Connery channels 007’s previous “sneaking around” attire from Goldfinger and Thunderball of an all-black polo and trousers ensemble, though he layers it here with a dark tweed half-Norfolk jacket to create a more versatile and fashionable outfit.

  • Brown-and-black herringbone tweed single-breasted half-Norfolk jacket with dog-eared notch lapels, 3-roll-2 leather button front, flapped bellows pockets, half-belted back, 2-button cuffs, and long double vents
  • Black knit long-sleeve polo shirt with three-button placket
  • Black flat front trousers with “Daks top” 3-button tab side adjusters, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather ankle boots
  • Black socks
  • Tan chamois leather shoulder holster with blue nylon strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

If you’re interested in an interesting behind-the-scenes account from a man with several Bond credits to his name, check out Bert Luxford’s memoirs, Albert J. Luxford, the Gimmick Man: Memoir of a Special Effects Maestro, where he recounts the “mashed potato” incident on set as well as many other tales from the British film industry’s special effects history.

…and, of course, buy the movie.

It's worth watching just to see Connery pull off this gesture.

It’s worth watching just to see Connery pull off this gesture.

You can also read more about this specific outfit at The Suits of James Bond.

The Quote

Welcome to hell, Blofeld.


Tony Soprano’s Gray Suit in “Meadowlands”

$
0
0
James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 1.04: "Meadowlands")

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 1.04: “Meadowlands”)

Vitals

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano, New Jersey mob boss

New Jersey, Fall 1999

Series: The Sopranos
Episode: “Meadowlands” (Episode 1.04)
Air Date: January 31, 1999
Director: John Patterson
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy birthday to James Gandolfini, born September 18, 1961. The celebrated late actor revolutionized television with his portrayal of troubled mob boss Tony Soprano on HBO’s The Sopranos from 1999 to 2007. (For those with an interest in the Zodiac, Gandolfini shared his astrological sign with Tony, who would be a fellow Virgo with his given birth date of August 24, 1960 in the final season premiere episode “Soprano Home Movies”.)

“My uncle, he’s got me in a box where I gotta do something I don’t want to do,” bemoans Tony at the outset of “Meadowlands”, the fourth episode of The Sopranos and the first without an on-screen murder. “Then there’s my mother. I pay four grand a month for this place, and she acts like I’m an eskimo pushing her out to sea.”

Tony’s problems with his family continue to grow through “Meadowlands” as his mother (Nancy Marchand) resents her placement in the Green Grove nursing home retirement community and his uncle Junior (Dominic Chianese) resents his nephew’s behind-the-scenes power plays. “Next time you come, you come heavy or not at all,” orders Junior after an especially tense meeting, causing a split in his family that not even Tony can bear.

And if only Tony’s problems ended there! The popular boss of the family, Jackie Aprile (Michael Rispoli), is laying on his deathbed, stimulating a potentially fatal power vacuum between Tony and his prickly uncle. Toss in Tony’s own hotheaded nephew Christopher (Michael Imperioli), who’s packing heat and looking to avenge a friend, and degenerate detective Vin Makazian (John Heard, in his first appearance on the show), who’s getting the wrong idea about Tony and his new therapist.

It’s almost forgivable when a raging Tony grabs a staple gun and punctures a few “overdue” holes into Junior’s lackey Mikey Palmice (Al Sapienza) and his suit. (Actually, any action taken against the obnoxious Mikey is automatically forgivable.)

What’d He Wear?

From the early days of suave sociopaths Bugsy Siegel and Frank Costello through the “Dapper Don” himself, John Gotti, mobsters have always had the reputation for their distinctive fashion sense. Silk suits, spearpoint-collared shirts, and sparkling pinky rings are all conjured with the image of the archetypal “made man”.

The Sopranos tore down several Mafia myths that glamorized gangsterdom, frequently outfitting its mobbed-up goombahs in track suits. Of course, head of the family Tony Soprano typically dressed a step beyond his underlings with tailored sport jackets and suits, French cuff shirts, and well-shined Allen Edmonds on his feet. “Meadowlands”, the show’s fourth episode, featured Tony in one of his first suits that really stood out to me as a sartorial combination befitting a man of his status.

Tony’s gray semi-solid wool suit may be very appropriate in the closet of a more – let’s say – traditional businessman, but his choice to wear it with a black-on-black shirt and tie with pocket hankie to match is far more Bada Bing! than boardroom.

Compared to the track-suited Big Pussy (Vincent Pastore) and disco-couture Silvio Dante (Steven Van Zandt) behind him, Tony looks downright professional.

Compared to the track-suited Big Pussy (Vincent Pastore) and disco-couture Silvio Dante (Steven Van Zandt) behind him, Tony looks downright professional.

The ventless single-breasted jacket has notch lapels that roll to the top of the three-button front. In addition to being popular during the show’s late 1990s and early 2000s timeframe, three-button suit jackets are more flattering for a “big and tall”-sized man like the 6’1″ James Gandolfini. The three buttons on the jacket’s front and the four-button cuffs are all black buttons that coordinate well with Tony’s choice of shirt and tie as well as the black silk display kerchief that he wears in the welted breast pocket.

Tony's crew conducts an impromptu hospital huddle at the dying Jackie Aprile's bedside.

Tony’s crew conducts an impromptu hospital huddle at the dying Jackie Aprile’s bedside.

The suit is likely Italian in origin, though a more eagle-eyed viewer may have more luck identifying the label based on the logo sewn into the inner left of the tan satin-finished lining, best seen as Tony leans into Mikey Palmice’s car.

Peep the label on Tony's suit. Any idea who made this one?

Peep the label on Tony’s suit. Any idea who made this one?

Tony’s suit trousers have single reverse pleats that begin an inch below the waistline where his belt loops remain unused in lieu of suspenders (braces) fastened to buttons sewn into the inner waistband. His trousers have straight pockets along each side seam, jetted back pockets, and are finished with cuffs (turn-ups) on the bottoms.

Scenes from Green Grove.

Scenes from Green Grove.

His suspenders coordinate nicely with his outfit, a wise move as he removes his suit jacket through his duration at the funeral home (good thing he didn’t “come heavy” for that visit!) The suspenders are black with a thick gray center stripe and a red hairline stripe on each side of that center stripe. Gunmetal clips on the front and back to hook the black leather strips into the trouser waist buttons. The adjusters are gold-toned.

When dealing with a corrupt lawman, Tony has to lay down the law himself.

When dealing with a corrupt lawman, Tony has to lay down the law himself.

Tony wears a black silk dress shirt with a point collar, plain front, breast pocket, back side pleats, and button cuffs that he unfastens when rolling up his sleeves. The black silk tie with its subtle tonal box pattern provides little contrast against Tony’s shirt for a slick, mobbed-up look.

Tony endures yet another afternoon of degradation from his mother.

Tony endures yet another afternoon of degradation from his mother.

Tony’s derby shoes are black leather with a perforated cap toe and five lace eyelets, worn with black socks.

Tony steps out of his Suburban.

Tony steps out of his Suburban.

Tony establishes his habit for yellow gold jewelry early on, wearing the same chain-link bracelet and ruby-and-diamond pinky ring on his right hand as he would for the rest of the show’s run. On the opposing hand, he sports his gold wedding band and his ultimate status symbol, an 18-karat all-gold Rolex Day-Date President, ref. no. 18038. The “President” name is derived from the distinctive link bracelet that Rolex introduced exclusively for this Day-Date model.

Tony none too subtly sports his Rolex President as a nod to his organizational aspirations.

Tony none too subtly sports his Rolex President as a nod to his organizational aspirations.

We can assume he is also wearing his usual gold open-link chain necklace with a pendant of St. Jerome around his neck.

Go Big or Go Home

Born Pierino Como to immigrants from from the Abruzzese town of Palena, Perry Como is always a pleasant and dependable choice when looking for the soundtrack of your mobbed-up afternoon. Though not as legendary as fellow Italian-American crooners like Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Tony Bennett, the well-respected “Mr. C.” remains beloved in his hometown of Canonsburg, Pennsylvania, where a statue of Perry Como plays his music 24/7.

“Meadowlands” features Perry Como’s original 1945 recording of “Prisoner of Love”, which was also used in Raging Bull (1980), when Tony drops in on Uncle Junior.

Tony and his captains go a less traditional route when chowing down on lobsters in the back room at the Bada Bing as Tipsy’s “Ugly Stadium” provides the backdrop.

How to Get the Look

If the maxim is true that one should “dress for the job you want,” Tony Soprano’s future as a mob boss should be well secured by his sartorial approach in “Meadowlands”.

  • Gray semi-solid wool suit:
    • Single-breasted 3-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and ventless back
    • Single reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black silk dress shirt with point collar, plain front, breast pocket, button cuffs, and side pleats
  • Black tonal box-patterned silk tie
  • Black gray-and-red striped suspenders with gold adjuster, gunmetal clips, and black leather double strips
  • Black leather perforated cap-toe 5-eyelet derby shoes
  • Black dress socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Rolex President Day-Date 118238 yellow gold wristwatch
  • Gold open-link chain bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with ruby and diamond stones
  • Gold wedding band
  • Gold open-link chain necklace with round St. Jerome pendant

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the entire series.

The Quote

He tries to leave, you break his other neck.

Footnote

James Gandolfini shares his September 18th birthday with my dear sister. Happy birthday, Sis!


Justified – Raylan’s Tan Suit Jacket and Jeans

$
0
0
Timothy Olyphant as U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens in the pilot episode ("Fire in the Hole") of Justified.

Timothy Olyphant as U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens in the pilot episode (“Fire in the Hole”) of Justified.
(Photo by: Prashant Gupta, FX)

Vitals

Timothy Olyphant as Raylan Givens, proudly old-fashioned Deputy U.S. Marshal

Harlan County, Kentucky, March 2010

Series: Justified
Episode: “Fire in the Hole” (Episode 1.01)
Air Date: March 16, 2010
Director: Michael Dinner
Creator: Graham Yost
Costume Designer: Ane Crabtree

Background

BAMF Style concludes this weeklong focus on first episodes with an outfit from the pilot of Justified, one of my favorite modern crime shows.

Justified‘s pilot has a special place in my heart for being filmed in southwestern Pennsylvania, just outside my hometown of Pittsburgh. According to a June 2009 article in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, the region was chosen for both aesthetic and practical reasons as a viable double for the South but with a tax rebate for film and TV productions that Kentucky doesn’t offer (or at least didn’t offer at the time.)

The pilot mostly follows the plot of Elmore Leonard’s short story “Fire in the Hole”, named for the signature catchphrase of criminal Boyd Crowder (Walton Goggins). Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens (Timothy Olyphant) is recalled to his home region of eastern Kentucky, an area proud of its coal-mining roots. In fact, Raylan had once dug coal with Boyd, who has used white supremacy as his ticket to attracting a gang of hoodlums that support his lifelong ambition of blowing shit up.

As tensions escalate throughout the episode, the trigger-happy Raylan finds himself sitting across the dinner table from the wild-eyed Boyd… each man armed with a .45 as Boyd’s fiery sister-in-law Ava (Joelle Carter) stands over the scene with a shotgun.

What’d He Wear?

After making his move to Kentucky, Raylan Givens re-purposes the jacket from the tan lightweight wool suit that he wore in the opening of the episode while serving as a Deputy U.S. Marshal in Miami.

The single-breasted suit jacket has slim notch lapels, a welted breast pocket, and straight flapped hip pockets with pick stitching throughout.

JUSTIFIED

The tan suit jacket has two brown horn buttons that he wears open as well as four smaller brown horn buttons on each cuff. A brief shot of Raylan performing a one-handed brass check on his 1911-style pistol (see “The Gun” section below) gives a glimpse of the suit’s white-and-blue striped lining, a lining that I’ve seen on suits from Nautica and Tommy Hilfiger although Raylan has also been known to be dressed in Banana Republic suits.

The jacket’s straight padded shoulders and suppressed waist develop the silhouette of the strong Western lawman, though the slight bunching over his holster on his right hip may explain why Raylan switches to darker suits and sport jackets through the rest of the series’ run.

Raylan defines cool, calm, and collected as he stands before a .45-waving Boyd Crowder.

Raylan defines cool, calm, and collected as he stands before a .45-waving Boyd Crowder.

Raylan wears a black cotton long-sleeve shirt with a spread collar, front placket, and patch pocket on the left breast. The rounded cuffs are fastened with a single button.

JUSTIFIED

Raylan opts for jeans even with his business suit jackets, so this dressed-down occasion is no exception. His jeans are a rich dark blue denim with a low rise and straight fit through the legs. They are likely Levi’s due to his known preference for the Levi’s 501™ Original Fit jeans through the rest of the series as well as the signature “Arcuate Design” stitching on the back pockets. (Levi Strauss includes “arcuate” among the many helpful terms in its online Denim Dictionary.)

Raylan prepares for a dangerous evening encounter.

Raylan prepares for a dangerous evening encounter.

Raylan would also wear Levi’s belts later in the series, but a reader commented on an earlier Raylan post that he was wearing belts from Chambers in the first few episodes. The belt isn’t seen closely enough to discern exact detail in this episode, but it’s dark brown tooled leather with a large steel single-prong buckle. Fastened to the right side of his belt is a tan-finished full-grain leather holster for his sidearm, in this case a compact 1911-variant Colt pistol. In subsequent episodes, he would carry his USMS-issued full-size Glock in a Bianchi Model 59 Special Agent® thumb break paddle holster.

Raylan’s tooled brown leather belt coordinates nicely with the rugged textured of his custom Lucchese anteater cowboy boots, which would be replaced by ostrich leg boots from the second season onward.

The "Harlan County" courthouse on screen is actually the Washington County Court of Common Pleas, built in Washington, PA at the turn of the century at the then-extravagant cost of $1 million.

The “Harlan County” courthouse on screen is actually the Washington County Court of Common Pleas, built in Washington, Pennsylvania, at the turn of the century at the then-extravagant cost of $1 million.

Reportedly, Timothy Olyphant had approached Hollywood hatmaker Baron Hats to create Raylan’s signature headgear, a sahara tan cattleman’s hat in 200XXX beaver that Baron Hats now markets as “The RG”, in an obvious nod to our protagonist. However, some readers have commented that Raylan’s hat is clearly a Stetson “Carson” hat (which would be re-branded and re-banded for sale as the “Marshall” due to its association with Justified.)

Either way, the hat is truly the stuff of classic Western heroes with its tall 4.25″ crown, 3.25″ brim, and the slim tooled brown leather hat band with a three-piece buckle set.

Though the interior of the courthouse was in Washington, Pennsylvania, Raylan and Ava find themselves on the balcony of the Armstrong County Courthouse in Kittanning, 70 miles northeast, with the city's famous Citizens Bridge in the background between them. This bridge would also famously be featured in The Mothman Prophecies (2002).

Though the interior of the courthouse was in Washington, Pennsylvania, Raylan and Ava find themselves on the balcony of the Armstrong County Courthouse in Kittanning, 70 miles northeast, with the city’s famous Citizens Bridge in the background between them. This bridge would also famously be featured in The Mothman Prophecies (2002).

The first episode establishes Raylan’s single piece of jewelry, a sterling silver horseshoe-shaped ring that he would wear on the third finger of his right hand for the duration of the series.

Dirty phone.

Dirty phone.

Before his sportier TAG Heuer would become Raylan’s watch of choice, Timothy Olyphant wore a stainless steel Rolex Submariner in several scenes of the pilot with the distinctive “Oyster”-style link bracelet prominently seen as he lights Ava’s cigarette for her.

Only the Oyster bracelet is visible here, but other scenes (featuring other outfits) plainly show Raylan wearing a Rolex Submariner.

Only the Oyster bracelet is visible here, but other scenes (featuring other outfits) plainly show Raylan wearing a Rolex Submariner.

“Fire in the Hole” marks the one and only appearance of Raylan’s tan suit jacket. The only other time he would wear a tan jacket is his more casual suede coat seen in a few following episodes in the first season.

How to Get the Look

Raylan Givens re-purposes an orphaned tan suit jacket with a black shirt and dark jeans as he finds his new look in his old hometown.

  • Tan lightweight wool single-breasted 2-button suit jacket with slim notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and single back vent
  • Black cotton long-sleeve shirt with spread collar, front placket, breast pocket, and 1-button rounded cuffs
  • Dark blue denim Levi’s 501™ Original Fit jeans
  • Light tan 200XXX beaver cattleman’s hat with a thin tooled leather band
  • Lucchese brown anteater cowboy boots
  • Dark brown tooled leather belt with steel single-prong buckle
  • Tan full grain leather Bianchi Model 59 Special Agent® paddle holster for a SIG-Sauer P226
  • Rolex Submariner stainless steel dive watch with black bezel and dial and “Oyster” link bracelet
  • Sterling silver horseshoe ring with braided side detail

The Gun

A classic 1911 is a fitting choice for a tough, old school lawman like Raylan Givens, though it’s only seen as his sidearm of choice in the pilot episode before switching to his Marshal-issued Glock 17.

Having presumably had his SIG-Sauer P226 used in the Miami shooting suspended, Raylan arms himself with a compact 1911-series pistol for the final act of “Fire in the Hole”. The experts at IMFDB identified the firearm specifically as a custom Colt Officer’s Enhanced Mark IV.

Raylan performs a one-handed brass check on his subcompact Colt. Don't try this at home.

Raylan performs a one-handed brass check on his subcompact Colt. Don’t try this at home.

The Colt Officer’s Enhanced Mark IV is a variant of the 3.5″-barreled subcompact Colt Officer’s ACP pistol introduced by Colt in 1985 as a response to the many downsized 1911 pistols being produced by competitors like Detonics and Rock Island Arsenal. The Colt Officer’s ACP would make its first prominent screen appearance in the hands and holster of Al Pacino’s character Lieutenant Vincent Hanna in Heat.

According to IMFDB, Raylan’s custom pistol is differentiated by its “added beveled mag well, 3 hole combat trigger, and Novak sights.”

Raylan keeps his pistol trained on Boyd after firing a shot over Ava's dining room table. Based on the position of the slide, it appears to have jammed.

Raylan keeps his pistol trained on Boyd after firing a shot over Ava’s dining room table. Based on the position of the slide, it appears to have jammed.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the first season but watch the whole show.

The source material, Elmore Leonard’s short story “Fire in the Hole”, is also excellent reading.

The Quote

You make me pull, I’ll put you down.

Gallery

Timothy Olyphant photographed on location in southwestern Pennsylvania, June 2009. Co-stars Joelle Carter and Timothy Olyphant during a break from filming at the courthouse in Washington, PA. Production photo of Timothy Olyphant and Joelle Carter. Production photo of Timothy Olyphant as Raylan Givens, taken by FX photographer Prashant Gupta.

Saturday Night Fever: Travolta’s White Disco Suit

$
0
0
John Travolta and Karen Lynn Gorney in an iconic promotional image for Saturday Night Fever (1977).

John Travolta and Karen Lynn Gorney in an iconic promotional image for Saturday Night Fever (1977).
In the film itself, Gorney wore a white dress rather than the red of the poster. “We shot me in every color dress under the sun… Red sells. I think that’s why it was used for the poster,” she explained in a 2011 interview with Media Mikes.

Vitals

John Travolta as Tony Manero, aimless paint store clerk and disco god

Brooklyn, Spring 1977

Film: Saturday Night Fever
Release Date: December 14, 1977
Director: John Badham
Costume Designer: Patrizia Von Brandenstein

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

This week marks the 40th anniversary of the premiere of Saturday Night Fever, the definitive film of the disco era. Often remembered for its soundtrack and street style, a closer look reveals an uncompromising film that wasn’t afraid to explore the dark themes that lurked beneath the era’s glittery polyester veneer, all propelled by an equally uncompromising star turn from a 23-year-old John Travolta.

“The film is far from perfect,” commented Roger Ebert in his four-star review, which itself masterfully explores what gives Saturday Night Fever such appeal seemingly despite itself. Ebert questions why it meant so much to his late friend Gene Siskel, and the question made me consider if I, too, would have such fondness for the film if I had first seen it at any other time in my life. I first saw Saturday Night Fever, and — for better or worse — I was able to identify with Tony and his pals who shielded their insecurities with macho swagger and who strove for no greater ambition than to land a “date” for the night.

Five years ago, I rewatched Saturday Night Fever and was disgusted by the misogyny and racism of the characters, perhaps out of embarrassment that these were characters with whom I was once able to identify without recognizing these awful traits. During all those viewings in high school, I evidently glossed over the fact that this was “one tough picture”, as Sean Burns wrote in his excellent 2015 review for WBUR 90.9.

Now in 2017, as I’ve turned 28 and the film turns 40, I have a greater appreciation for what the film was communicating and that, rather than glorifying this lifestyle, Saturday Night Fever is merely putting it on display, providing an immortal voice for a short-lived but significant era in American culture and allowing future generations to take from it what we will.

Burns’ review continues to ably summarize the film and set the scene for its final act:

The slender thread of a plot follows Tony’s attempts to woo Stephanie into being his partner in a local dance contest, but she’s outgrown guys like him. Moving to Manhattan and taking night classes, Stephanie is trying to better herself and it is very much to the credit of [Norman] Wexler’s script that she’s stumbling every step of the way. Still, Tony sees her not just as a dance partner but also as possibly his way out of his increasingly claustrophobic neighborhood’s conscripted rituals. It’s no accident they end up dancing to The Bee Gees’ “More Than a Woman”, because Stephanie’s more than a [dame] to Tony, she’s a life raft…

By the final reel that dumb dance contest has become an afterthought, and the film goes on spiraling into one shocking scene after another, complete with a suicide and a gang rape — nothing you’d expect from the kitschy reputation. The movie ends on a note of hesitant uncertainty. We don’t know if these kids are gonna make it through, but you really hope they will.

What’d He Wear?

SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER

Tony Manero’s white suit for the finale of Saturday Night Fever remains one of the most iconic costumes in movies, less for its fashion value and more for symbolizing the hedonistic zeitgeist of the ’70s celebrating one last hurrah before giving way to the ruthless materialism and conservative values of the 1980s.

After Saturday Night Fever was released in December 1977, renowned film critic Gene Siskel immediately felt a connection to the film that he would eventually see at least 17 times. Within a year, Siskel purchased the suit at a charity auction for $2,000, and it would be one of his most prized possessions until 1995 when it sold to an anonymous bidder at a Christie’s auction in 1995. Yet another 17 years passed and the suit seemingly disappeared, until 2012 when the superfan agreed to lend it to the Victoria and Albert museum for its Hollywood Costume exhibit that opened that October.

Hollywood costume designer Deborah Nadoolman, guest curator of the V&A’s exhibit, offered an explanation of the suit’s appeal to the Daily Mail prior to the opening of the exhibit:

Saturday Night Fever was actually a very dark little movie, and this suit, made of completely gross polyester, was the shining light, the symbol of aspiration and hope that shone in the film in that heart-stopping moment when it all comes together, the music, the lights, the suit, and Travolta dances in it… It took me totally by surprise. I fell completely in love with him, as everyone who sees the movie does.

Nadoolman wasn't the only one falling in love, as Tony's final dance with Stephanie seems to finally win her affection... at least for the moment.

Nadoolman wasn’t the only one falling in love, as Tony’s final dance with Stephanie seems to finally win her affection… at least for the moment.

So what went into this iconic clothing moment that clearly affected so many viewers? Months of extensive costume design and custom bespoke tailoring? Nay.

The story of how John Travolta eventually ended up in a suit that would go on to define an era speaks volumes about the effect of a talented costume designer, illustrated by Saturday Night Fever‘s Patrizia Von Brandenstein’s brilliant work. Fashion of the 1970s is often caricatured today due to its excess, but Von Brandenstein was able to authentically reflect contemporary fashions using all sourced clothing, essentially also creating a time machine to inform today’s viewers that yes, people actually did wear silky floral shirts and pink pants or voluminous faux-fur coats. Budgetary reasons led to director John Badham requesting that all film costumes be purchased off-the-rack rather than created for the film, which heightened the degree of authenticity.

Of course, John Travolta’s Tony Manero would need something special for the film’s climax, a major dance number with Stephanie (Karen Lynn Gorney) set to the Bee Gees’ “More Than a Woman”. Initially, Travolta and Badham had envisioned Tony taking to the dance floor in a sleek black suit, but Von Brandenstein encouraged them to go with a white suit instead. Not only would a white suit photograph better in the dark but colorful discotheque, but “she felt strongly that white represented Tony Manero’s personal journey from ignorance to enlightenment,” as described in V&A’s press release that was posted by Dezeen in August 2012.

Per Badham’s edict regarding budget, even such a salient costume would need to be purchased off-the-rack. Von Brandenstein’s shopping expeditions led her to a cheap men’s boutique in Bay Ridge, particularly fitting as Tony was to be a denizen of Bay Ridge. Von Brandenstein found the all-polyester white suit and knew that she had her armor for the newly enlightened Tony Manero… though she could have hardly anticipated its full impact.

SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER

Rather than pure white, Tony’s three-piece disco suit is closer to ivory though the plastic buttons on the jacket and vest are pure white, as is the satin-finished lining on the inside of the jacket and back of the vest. The material is 100% polyester, and 1977 might have been the most fashionable year for a gent to be strutting around in head-to-toe polyester, despite the fact that this highly non-breathable fabric would have its wearer sweating like Patrick Ewing after a single hustle.

The Christie’s auction listing for the screen-worn suit that had once belonged to Gene Siskel carried a label from The Leading Male, a men’s shop once located at the corner of Kings Highway and East 12th Street in Midland, Brooklyn. (According to the DVD commentary, Travolta actually had two identical suits for the dance sequence; after performing (and sweating profusely) in one, he would switch into a second while the other suit dried.)

The cyclical nature of men’s fashion meant a revival of 1930s styles for both men and women. Tony and his crew illustrate this point with their single-breasted suit jackets with wide peak lapels and straight shoulders with roped sleeveheads.

Tony's white suit takes the '30s revival a step further as a three-piece suit with matching waistcoat.

Tony’s white suit takes the ’30s revival a step further as a three-piece suit with matching waistcoat.

This is a cheap polyester suit in 1977, and so Tony’s wide peak lapels are far from timeless, extending nearly the entire width of the front of the jacket and coming to a sharp peak at the armpits. The full-bellied lapels have long gorges.

The only way Tony's night is getting any worse is if Bernie Goetz boards the same train.

The only way Tony’s night is getting any worse is if Bernie Goetz boards the same train.

For the despondent Tony’s subway ride at the end to Stephanie’s apartment, he flips up his lapels to reveal a pure white fabric under his collar.

The two-button suit jacket has four matching buttons on each cuff. The three outer pockets on the jacket are all patch pockets with pick stitched edges like the lapels.

A rightfully ashamed Tony pays Stephanie a visit.

A rightfully ashamed Tony pays Stephanie a visit.

“When choosing what goes in to such a major dance costume, I paid attention to the usual factors of cut, ‘danceability’, and maintenance, and I thought about the character of Tony Manero,” commented Von Brandenstein in V&A’s press release.

Tony’s suit jacket was certainly made more “danceable” by its extra-long double vents, also a fashionable element in 1970s tailoring.

SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER

The single-breasted matching waistcoat (vest) rises to mid-torso with a single-breasted, five-button front. Tony correctly leaves the lowest button undone at the notched bottom. The vest also has two narrowly welted lower pockets between the axis of the third and fourth buttons.

A rough night...

A rough night…

When reviewing the film in 1999 after the death of his friend Gene Siskel, Roger Ebert included the following quote from Scott T. Anderson: “The peculiar construction of disco pants is a marvel of modern engineering… So loose at the ankles, yet so tight in the groin.”

...and it keeps getting rougher.

…and it keeps getting rougher.

The trousers rise high with the beltless waistband, which was reported to be a size 28 in V&A’s release (as posted on Dazeen). The ideal style of a disco dancer’s trousers was to keep them as tight around the hips as possible, so there’s nary a pleat to be found on these flat front trousers. There are straight pockets along each side seam and the two jetted back pockets each close through a single button.

The plain-hemmed bottoms of these trousers are dramatically flared… just as they should be in this situation.

Tony and Stephanie's much-rehearsed routine pays off during their minutes of glory at 2001.

Tony and Stephanie’s much-rehearsed routine pays off during their minutes of glory at 2001.

Tony’s elegant moves on the dance floor are no doubt aided by his distinctive footwear, a pair of black-and-gray leather wingtip brogue half-boots with five lace eyelets and highly stacked heels. He wears them with black socks, hardly the most traditional hosiery with white suits but ultimately consistent with his black-and-white aesthetic.

The lowest of lows. Tony slumps in the corner of the subway, Marlboro dangling from his mouth.

The lowest of lows. Tony slumps in the corner of the subway, Marlboro dangling from his mouth.

Which brings us to Tony’s shirt. Ebert’s review mentions that he once had the opportunity to inspect the Saturday Night Fever suit that Siskel had in his possession and he noticed that “it came with a shirt that buttoned under the crotch, so it would still look neat after a night on the dance floor.” The Christie’s auction listing elaborates on this device, explaining that the shirt was “attached to the waistband of the trousers with an elastic fabric; this allowed Mr. Travolta the freedom to dance and strike his now legendary poses.”

Manufactured by Pascal of Spain, the shirt itself is black polyester and striped with double sets of white-stitched broken stripes. The shirt has steeply mitred cuffs that close through one of two buttons; Tony wears his cuffs on the inner button for a looser fit around the wrists.

Travolta wears the button at the top of the point collar unbuttoned as well as the two buttons under it, exposing his gold jewelry and chest hair.

Tony's crew greets Stephanie outside the club moments before the couple is to take the floor.

Tony’s crew greets Stephanie outside the club moments before the couple is to take the floor.

In the 30th anniversary retrospective published by Vanity Fair in 2007, cast member Paul Pape fondly recalls accompanying costume designer Patrizia Von Brandenstein to Times Square to shop for the characters’ clothing and accessories. “We were buying all these polyester things, picking out all this costume jewelry. She had a great feel for it,” recalled Pape.

Throughout the film, Travolta wears two gold necklaces with pendants that all get lost in his maze of chest hair that remains constantly exposed by his half-buttoned shirts. The longer, simpler necklace has a plain gold cross. The shorter but thicker necklace has both a round saint-embossed pendant and a gold cornicello (or “corno”), a horn-shaped amulet traditionally worn by Italians to protect themselves from bad luck.

SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER

Tony wears a thick gold ring with a dark rectangular flush-set stone on the third finger of his left hand, traditionally a finger reserved for wedding rings though this certainly is not that.

The Cultural Impact

Like the film and its soundtrack, the white suit had an immediate cultural impact. Three years after its release, when disco was effectively considered “dead”, this scene was spoofed in Airplane! when Ted Stryker (Robert Hays) whips off the jacket of his U.S. Navy service dress white uniform, revealing a white vest and black disco shirt as he immediately strikes a pose. (In an interesting connection, Robert Hays co-starred on Angie, the short-lived TV vehicle for Saturday Night Fever star Donna Pescow.)

Robert Hays strikes a familiar pose in a familiar outfit in Airplane! (1980)

Robert Hays strikes a familiar pose in a familiar outfit in Airplane! (1980)

Of course, Gene Siskel had called Saturday Night Fever his favorite movie of all time and owned one of Travolta’s screen-worn suits for 17 years before selling it for $145,000 at a Christie’s auction in 1995. After Siskel died in 1999, Roger Ebert concluded his updated review of Saturday Night Fever: “I asked Gene if he’d ever tried it on. It was too small, he said. But it wasn’t the size that mattered. It was the idea of the suit.”

Embed from Getty Images

Yours truly had also made it a personal mission to find a similar suit (no need to track down one of Travolta’s!) When I was in tenth grade, I finally hit pay dirt at a local Goodwill store when I found an ivory three-piece suit, no doubt from the ’70s and constructed in 100% polyester à la Manero with a single-breasted peak-lapel jacket, five-button waistcoat, and beltless trousers with flared bottoms. The suiting had a subtle brown hairline pinstripe that differed it from Travolta’s solid-colored suit, but at $10.99, I wasn’t going to complain.

To illustrate my thrifting achievement, I dug up a few photos of said suit in action 13 years ago when I could actually fit into the 38R suit! (Apologies to my classmates who likely had no idea that they were associating with a future style blogger and thus would be subject to being featured online in this context.)

The Music

One would be remiss to discuss Saturday Night Fever without exploring its best-selling soundtrack, anchored by the Bee Gees but also featuring tracks from KC and the Sunshine Band, Kool and the Gang, The Trammps, Yvonne Elliman, and more.

The film’s theme, “Stayin’ Alive” by the Bee Gees, is the anthem most associated with this film (and often wrongly with this scene), but it was the more romantic “More Than  a Woman” that scored Tony and Stephanie’s award-winning dance at 2001 Odyssey.

“More Than a Woman” was one of several songs that the Bee Gees wrote and performed originally for the film, with the three-stage recording beginning in February 1977 in France and wrapping up seven months later in an L.A. studio. A second version of the song, performed by the R&B group Tavares, was also featured on the soundtrack album and in the film itself, during one of Tony and Stephanie’s practice sessions.

What to Imbibe

And after such an invigorating dance? Tony’s pals thoughtfully ordered him his signature drink, a Seven and Seven, that would be waiting for him upon completion of his dance.

Tony's pals build up his confidence with compliments and his signature highball.

Tony’s pals build up his confidence with compliments and his signature highball.

Derisively referred to as “the quintessential wedding drink” by bartender Patrick Williams in a Thrillist article, this highball was particularly popular during the ’70s as its two ingredients — Seagram’s 7 whiskey and 7 Up lemon-lime soda — were each considerably popular on their own during the decade. To make it, just pour a shot or two of Seagram’s into a highball glass, add ice, and top it off with enough 7 Up until you’re satisfied.

After a disappointing night at 2001, the Faces hit the road in Bobby’s busted ’64 Impala with cans of Schaefer for all. This beer is an inspired choice for the Faces, as this group of Bay Ridge boys would certainly appreciate a Brooklyn brew like Schaefer.

Tony downs a Schaefer.

Tony downs a Schaefer.

Schaefer first came onto the American beer scene in 1842 when the first brewery opened in New York City, though this would be relocated to Brooklyn in 1916 when Rudolph J. Schaefer constructed what the company itself calls “the very best in pre-Prohibition breweries” (Source). The brewery expanded throughout the 20th century, eventually closing the Brooklyn plant in January 1976, selling out to the Stroh Brewery Company five years later.

John Travolta dances with Karen Lynn Gorney in Saturday Night Fever (1977)

John Travolta dances with Karen Lynn Gorney in Saturday Night Fever (1977). Note the manufacturer’s label visible on the inside of Travolta’s suit jacket.

How to Get the Look

The Tony Manero look is best reserved for costumes, but if you are going to shoot for pulling off this look, you may as go for real clothing rather than some papery-looking costume kit.

  • White polyester disco suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button jacket with wide peak lapels, patch breast pocket, patch hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and long double vents
    • Single-breasted 5-button vest with two slim-welted pockets and notched bottom
    • Flat front high-rise beltless trousers with straight side pockets, button-through jetted back pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black polyester shirt with white-stitched broken stripes, point collar, plain front, and mitred adjustable-button cuffs
  • Black-and-gray leather 5-eyelet wingtip brogue half-boots with stacked heels
  • Black socks
  • Gold short necklace with saint pendant and Italian cornicello pendant
  • Gold long necklace with plain gold cross
  • Thick gold ring with dark set-in rectangular stone

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and, of course, the soundtrack which remains one of the best-selling movie soundtracks of all time (surpassed only by The Bodyguard.)

The Quote

There’s ways of killin’ yourself without killin’ yourself.

Gallery

John Travolta and Karen Lynn Gorney in mid-routine. Sans jacket, John Travolta shows off on the dance floor.

Steve Martin’s Gray Plaid Jacket in My Blue Heaven

$
0
0
Steve Martin as Vinnie Antonelli in My Blue Heaven (1990)

Steve Martin as Vinnie Antonelli in My Blue Heaven (1990)

Vitals

Steve Martin as Vinnie Antonelli (aka Tod Wilkinson), ex-Mafia informant

Fryburg, California, November 1989 through summer 1990

Film: My Blue Heaven
Release Date: August 17, 1990
Director: Herbert Ross
Costume Designer: Joseph G. Aulisi

Background

You know, it’s dangerous for you to be here in the frozen food section… because you could melt. all. this. stuff.

Steve Martin’s smooth-talking Vinnie Antonelli finds post-Mafia lifestyle to be more and more amenable in My Blue Heaven as he builds a suburban criminal empire and seduces a floozy in the frozen aisle of his local grocery store.

Of course, long before Vinnie is able to smooth-talk Shaldeen (Carol Kane) into an impulsive marriage, he’s trying to smooth-talk his way out of a tough situation with the local D.A., Hannah Stubbs (Joan Cusack) after she has busted him with a car full of stolen merchandise… not to mention that the car itself belonged to a local minister. Vinnie is forced to make an unconvincing case to his FBI handler, Barney Coopersmith (Rick Moranis).

Barney, you got a ring of phony ministers stealing liquor. Make me a minister, I’ll go undercover, infiltrate them, we’ll nail these-

What’d He Wear?

I tend to focus on wedding outfits around the romantic (for some) holiday of St. Valentine’s Day, so Steve Martin’s gray plaid jacket for his impromptu nuptials in My Blue Heaven felt like a perfect fit as #MafiaMonday coincides with the start of this year’s #WeekOfWeddings.

This gray-on-gray buffalo plaid jacket is first seen when Martin’s Vinnie Antonelli is pulled in for his first of many arrests while in the federal witness protection program. The material’s nubby imperfections imply raw silk.

MY BLUE HEAVEN

Vinnie’s single-breasted sport jacket has widely notched lapels that roll to a low two-button stance, consistent with fashion trends of the late 1980s and early ’90s. The suppressed waist adds emphasis to the padded shoulders with their roped sleeveheads, giving Vinnie’s look even more swagger to coordinate with his “wiseguy” attitude. The jacket also has a welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, three-button cuffs, and a ventless back.

MY BLUE HEAVEN

For his arrest at the hands of the Fryburg Police Deparment early in the film, Vinnie wears this jacket with a solid black button-up shirt that he wears with the top button undone. The narrow point collar of the shirt is poorly balanced by the jacket’s wider lapels, but this was an unfortunate trend of the era.

MY BLUE HEAVEN

And speaking of unfortunate… Vinnie looks brasher and flashier than ever for one of his many trips to the grocery store, sporting the painfully clashing combination of a bold printed shirt under his gray plaid jacket. The shirt consists of a field of blue recessed diamonds on a light blue ground. Like his black shirt, it has a narrow point collar, button cuffs, and a front placket.

The old adage is to never go grocery shopping hungry, but this jacket-and-shirt combination no doubtlessly helped Vinnie's fellow shoppers lose any remaining appetite they may have had.

The old adage is to never go grocery shopping hungry, but this jacket-and-shirt combination no doubtlessly helped Vinnie’s fellow shoppers lose any remaining appetite they may have had.

To balance the chaotic upper half of his wardrobe, Vinnie sports a pair of black double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups (cuffs), worn with a black leather belt.

Vinnie counters his sober all-black base layer with an eye-popping plaid jacket, two-toned loafers, and gray socks. Monochromatic, yes, but far from boring.

Vinnie counters his sober all-black base layer with an eye-popping plaid jacket, two-toned loafers, and gray socks. Monochromatic, yes, but far from boring.

Vinnie obviously considers himself quite the footwear expert, telling Hannah upon their first meeting: “You’re a good looking girl… except for those army shoes. No wonder he split. You know, you ought to get yourself a pair of nice high heels. Spectator pumps.”

Unsolicited fashion advice aside, it’s clear that Vinnie knows a thing or two about spectator pumps, wearing a pair of black-and-white patent leather loafers while dishing out the aforementioned tips. These unique shoes have black caps and quarters, a white vamp, and black kiltie detail over the arch. He wears them with gray socks.

Vinnie pays more attention to his shoes than his interrogator.

Vinnie pays more attention to his shoes than his interrogator.

Clearly not afraid of the attention his gangster affectations may draw, Vinnie retains his snazzy Rolex watch and gold pinky ring while in the custody of the Federal Witness Protection Program. His Rolex DateJust appears to be a 116233 model with a stainless steel 36mm case, 18-karat yellow gold bezel, and a mixed gold and stainless “Jubilee”-style bracelet with the appropriately named Roman dial.

Go Big or Go Home – Wedding Edition

THE VENUE

“I’m in Reno!” Vinnie excitedly informs Barney, no doubt giving heart palpitations to his FBI handler not only for leaving the state but by following up with the news of his marriage to Shaldeen.

MY BLUE HEAVEN

It may seem crazier than fiction, but Vinnie’s bigamous marriage (using his new, witness protection-issued identity) was actually based on a real incident from the life of Goodfellas subject Henry Hill who certainly gave his government supervisors plenty to sweat about before he was finally dropped from witness protection in 1989. It was Hill’s interviews with Nicholas Pileggi that led to Pileggi’s wife Nora Ephron developing the screenplay for My Blue Heaven.

THE REFRESHMENTS

Nary a refreshment – aside from the fleeting entertainment of a casino slot machine – is visible during Vinnie and Shaldeen’s celebration of their nuptials. Perhaps they commemorated the occasion by heating up one of the Micro Magic frozen meals from her shopping cart that drew them together in the first place.

When two people dressed like this meet by chance in a suburban grocery store, they really have no choice but to immediately marry.

When two people dressed like this meet by chance in a suburban grocery store, they really have no choice but to immediately marry.

NOTABLE GUESTS

Sadly, Vinnie and Shaldeen’s few hours of acquaintance prevented the couple from making any close friends before their nuptials, but Vinnie is quick to share his good news with his FBI handler Barney Coopersmith… not considering the need to inform him of the change of circumstances (and insane breach of security).

How to Get the Look

Vinnie counters his sober all-black base layer with an eye-popping plaid jacket, two-toned loafers, and gray socks. Monochromatic, yes, but far from boring.

  • Gray-on-gray buffalo plaid raw silk single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and ventless back
  • Black long-sleeve shirt with point collar, front placket, and button cuffs
  • Black double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black leather belt with rounded gold single-prong buckle
  • Black-and-white patent leather kiltie loafers
  • Gray socks
  • Rolex DateJust two-tone gold wristwatch with white Roman dial on yellow gold and stainless mixed Jubilee bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with brick red oval setting

Of course, if you’re feeling inspired by Vinnie Antonelli’s pattern-colliding boldness, feel free to swap out that black shirt for a blue diamond-printed shirt… but also, you probably shouldn’t.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Are you sure he’s a minister? One of my best friends makes a living as a completely phony minister. For two bucks, I can make you a minister. Some guys steal your money, but these guys… they steal your heart.

Tony Montana’s White Suit in Scarface

$
0
0
Al Pacino as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983)

Al Pacino as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983)

Vitals

Al Pacino as Tony Montana, impulsive and hotheaded cocaine dealer

Miami, Summer 1981

Film: Scarface
Release Date: December 9, 1983
Director: Brian De Palma
Costume Designer: Patricia Norris
Tailor: Tommy Velasco

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Brian de Palma’s 1983 drug epic Scarface celebrated its 35th anniversary yesterday. A remake of a 1932 gangster film that itself took inspiration from the life of Al Capone, Scarface met with negative critical reception at the time of its release though it was a box office hit and racked up Golden Globe nods for lead actors Al Pacino and Steven Bauer.

As in the 1932 version, one scene finds the rising gangster returning home to flaunt his wealth in front of his concerned mother (Míriam Colón) and his devoted sister (Mary Elizabeth Mastrantonio). Waiting out by the car is the gangster’s flashy young pal, who catches sight of the gangster’s younger sister and is immediately smitten.

What’d He Wear?

“You think you can come in here with your hot-shot clothes and make fun of us?” shouts Mama Montana at her son during his first visit home in five years. Tony’s white three-piece suit and black open-neck shirt for a visit to the Montana family homestead clearly recalls the iconic disco suit worn by John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever (1977).

Interestingly, Travolta’s character in Saturday Night Fever idolized Pacino, having a Serpico poster on his wall, quoting Dog Day Afternoon, and invoking Pacino’s name when half-dressed to shock his elderly grandmother. More than a decade later, Travolta would again co-opt a Pacino look with his cinephile character’s supposedly Serpico-influenced black leather jacket in Get Shorty (1995).

…but back to Scarface, where Pacino himself wore a white three-piece suit that was likely made for the production by Paramount tailor Tommy Velasco.

Tony and Gina share a sibling moment.

Tony and Gina share a sibling moment.

Even if the overall aesthetic was inspired by Saturday Night Fever, the details of Tony’s suit were updated for ’80s trends with the jacket’s dramatic peak lapels reduced to standard notch lapels that roll to a single-button closure. The jacket also has wide, padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads, “kissing” two-button cuffs, long double vents, and straight flapped hip pockets. Tony wears a black pocket square loosely puffed in the jacket’s welted breast pocket for a gauche match with his shirt.

Tony's swagger isn't welcome in the family home.

Tony’s swagger isn’t welcome in the family home.

The suit’s matching single-breasted waistcoat (vest) has five buttons, which Tony correctly wears with just the top four fastened, and jetted lower pockets in line with the fourth button down.

Tony’s plain-fronted trousers have flared bottoms finished with turn-ups (cuffs). His belt is black with a squared gold single-prong buckle.

Production photo of Tony raising a toast with his sister Gina (Mary Elizabeth Mastrantonio) and their mother (Míriam Colón).

Production photo of Tony raising a toast with his sister Gina (Mary Elizabeth Mastrantonio) and their mother (Míriam Colón).

Tony wears a soft black silk shirt with a spread collar that he wears flattened over the jacket lapels with the top half of the shirt’s buttons undone. The shirt has a plain front and button cuffs, which he rolls up when he wears the shirt on its own with a pair of cream slacks and a brown leather belt later in the film.

Production photo of Al Pacino as Tony Montana.

Production photo of Al Pacino as Tony Montana.

For the nighttime visit to his family, Tony wears black shoes, most likely his black Cuban-style boots with raised heels.

A brief vignette of Tony taking his sister Gina shopping later in the movie also appears to feature this suit, sans waistcoat. For this daytime shopping expedition, Tony wears the same tan patent leather cap-toe oxford shoes that he wears in other scenes, such as with his sky blue suit, gray silk suit, and the white tuxedo at his wedding.

Tony wears different shoes for his visit home as he does for a shopping trip with Gina.

Tony wears different shoes for his visit home as he does for a shopping trip with Gina.

If Mama Montana knew to be suspicious of Tony when he first arrived, her suspicions would have only been further confirmed if she caught up with him a few months later when greater success meant a plethora of gold jewelry festooning his torso, fingers, and wrists.

Tony wears two yellow gold necklaces, a larger Cuban-style chain and a slimmer rope necklace on a longer chain, that both get plenty of screen time due to his low-buttoned shirts. Tony also loads up his right hand with gold rings, wearing a diamond ring on his third finger and a ruby stone on his pinky.

Tony’s Omega La Magique yellow gold wristwatch is iconic in its own right. Less than 650 pieces were produced of the rare La Magique, which was introduced in 1981 and marketed as one of the thinnest watches in the world with its flat, 2.6mm rectangular case.

Don't mess with Montana!

Don’t mess with Montana!

This isn’t his only white suit as he also wears a low-slung white pinstripe double-breasted suit when visiting Sosa in Bolivia and visiting Elvira poolside.

Al Pacino as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983)

Al Pacino as Tony Montana in Scarface (1983)

How to Get the Look

Despite the disco connotations of a white three-piece suit and black open-neck shirt, Tony Montana is never seen actually wearing this combination to the film’s famous Babylon Club… instead, he dons it for the more idiosyncratic occasion of a visit home to his mother and sister.

  • White three-piece suit, consisting of:
    • Single-button suit jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 2-button cuffs, and double vents
    • Single-breasted 5-button vest with lower jetted pockets, notched bottom, and adjustable back strap
    • Flat front medium-rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black silk dress shirt with point collar, plain front, and button cuffs
  • Black leather belt with gold single-prong buckle
  • Black leather shoes
  • Black socks
  • Omega La Magique wristwatch on left wrist with gold bracelet, gold rectangular case, and round black dial
  • Gold chain-link ID bracelet
  • Gold ring with diamond, worn on right ring finger
  • Gold ring with square ruby stone, worn on right pinky
  • Two yellow gold necklaces

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

Your son made it, Mama. He’s a success. That’s why I didn’t come around before. I want you to see what a good boy I’ve been.

Footnote

Though Tony’s mother’s house is meant to be on the outskirts of Miami, the actual filming location for the Montana abode was 1443 W. E Street in Wilmington, a neighborhood in the harbor region of southern Los Angeles, California, adjacent to Long Beach.

My Cousin Vinny

$
0
0
Joe Pesci as Vinny Gambini in My Cousin Vinny (1992)

Joe Pesci as Vinny Gambini in My Cousin Vinny (1992)

Vitals

Joe Pesci as Vincent LaGuardia “Vinny” Gambini, fledgling defense attorney

“Beechum County”, Alabama, January into February 1992

Film: My Cousin Vinny
Release Date: March 13, 1992
Director: Jonathan Lynn
Costume Designer: Carol Wood

Background

Happy birthday to Joe Pesci! Though the 76-year-old actor has been mostly retired from acting over the last two decades, he’s occasionally stepped back into the camera lens for a few sporadic screen appearances, most recently a Google Assistant ad that played during Super Bowl LIII and his latest collaboration with Martin Scorsese, The Irishman, scheduled to be released this fall.

Following his notable Oscar win for Goodfellas—and his short, humble acceptance speech that consisted solely of “It’s my privilege, thank you”—Pesci had some fun parodying his excitable screen persona in comedies like Home Alone, the Lethal Weapon series, and My Cousin Vinny.

The latter stars Pesci as Vincent LaGuardia Gambini, an ambitious and animated amateur attorney from Brooklyn who finds himself taking on his first murder case in Alabama. A real pesce-out-of-water story.

As well as a surprisingly accurate and entertaining portrayal of judicial procedure, My Cousin Vinny also includes one of my all-time favorite movie sight gags as Vinny and his equally Brooklynite querida, Mona Lisa Vito (Marisa Tomei, who won an Academy Award for the role), sit down to breakfast at a rural diner. They’re handed a menu and mull over the contents for a while.

MY COUSIN VINNY

“Breakfast?” asks Lisa.

“Ya think?” responds Vinny.

We then see the menu itself and its three rather limited options…

MY COUSIN VINNY

 

 

I’d get the breakfast, too.

What’d He Wear?

Judge Haller: What are you wearing?
Vinny: Huh?
Judge Haller: What are you wearing?
Vinny: Um… I’m wearin’ clothes. I…I don’t get the question.
Judge Haller: When you come into my court lookin’ like you do, you not only insult me, but you insult the integrity of this court.
Vinny: I apologize, sir, but this is how I dress.
Judge Haller: Next time you come into my courtroom, you will look lawyerly, and I mean you comb your hair and wear a suit and tie—and that suit better be made out of some kind of cloth. You understand me?

The attire that Judge Haller (Fred Gwynne) takes such passionate offense to is Vinny’s signature item, a well-worn black leather jacket cut like a ventless sport jacket with a full-bellied shawl collar.

There are worse things one could wear in a courtroom...

There are worse things one could wear in a courtroom…

Despite Judge Haller’s objection to it, this black leather jacket is Vinny’s primary garment for the first half of the movie until he shows up to jury selection, and—eventually—the trial itself in a conservative gray worsted business suit.

The burgeoning online industry of questionable film jacket retailers even includes a few takes on the My Cousin Vinny jacket among its ranks (see here and here), though obviously one on the hunt for a quality leather jacket is always better advised to inquire from a trusted company and, ideally, one where you can try on the garment before purchasing it.

Vinny’s black leather jacket has wide shoulders with roped sleeveheads, a welted breast pocket, and widely jetted hip pockets placed along a horizontal yoke in line with the coat’s sole front button. Each sleeve ends with a short, reinforced vent with two functional buttons.

Vinny manages to look out of place both in a staid courtroom and at a rural rib joint.

Vinny manages to look out of place both in a staid courtroom and at a rural rib joint.

“A little informal, aren’t we?” Haller first observed upon meeting Vinny as the latter stands before him in his office wearing a black long-sleeve T-shirt tucked into his black slacks. Indeed, Vinny is even more dressed down than usual for his meeting with Haller, though he could be forgiven as the cotton crew-neck long-sleeve T-shirt was probably more comfortable for his and Lisa’s long car ride into Alabama.

The T-shirt allows Vinny to prominently display his gold pendant, no doubt emblazoned with an embossed saint, worn on a gold rope-twist necklace.

Any idea what's on Vinny's pendant?

Any idea what’s on Vinny’s pendant?

Vinny shows up in court for the arraignment at least wearing a collared shirt made from a soft, napped black cloth with a purple windowpane grid check. The shirt has a point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs.

At breakfast, Vinny wears the shirt half-open to reveal his black cotton sleeveless undershirt beneath, though he buttons up by the time he has to appear in court.

MY COUSIN VINNY

After Haller’s admonishment during the arraignment, Vinny continues trying to dress up his look by adding a tie, though the novelty black silk tie printed with large alarm clocks on it hardly makes him look like Clarence Darrow. Competing to complete Vinny’s lack of professional attire is his black-on-teal tiger-striped shirt.

Judge Haller: Now didn’t I tell you next time you appear in my courtroom that you’d dress appropriately?
Vinny: You were serious about that?

Haller made the point of expressing that he likes lawyers in his courtroom to be wearing coats and ties. Technically, Vinny gives him no reason to complain.

Haller made the point of expressing that he likes lawyers in his courtroom to be wearing coats and ties. Technically, Vinny gives him no reason to complain.

Vinny has no one to impress when he shows up at the Beechum County lockup, so he wears a plain gray shirt under his leather jacket. The long-sleeve shirt has a casual one-piece collar and the buttons are widely spaced out up the plain front.

MY COUSIN VINNY

Vinny seems to be sticking to this aesthetic for his trials and tribulations outside the courtroom, trading legal histories and cups of coffee in opposing counsel Jim Trotter’s office while wearing a lightweight gray-blue shirt striped in alternating double sets of black and light gray stripes. Like his other button-ups, this shirt has a pronounced point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs.

MY COUSIN VINNY

The chat leads to Vinny agreeing to accompany Trotter on a hunting trip, though the suggestion leaves Vinny somewhat befuddled about what to wear. In fact, Vinny seems more concerned with looking appropriate on the hunt than in the courtroom.

“What about these pants I got on, you think they’re okay?” he calls out to Mona Lisa, who’s shut herself into the bathroom. She takes a few moments before reentering the room: “Imagine you’re a deer. You’re prancing along, you get thirsty, you spot a little brook, you put your little deer lips down to the cool clear water… bam! A fuckin’ bullet rips off part of your head! Your brains are layin’ on the ground in little bloody pieces. Now I ax ya, would ya give a fuck the kind of pants the son-of-a-bitch who shot you was wearing?”

Her diatribe aside, Vinny sticks with the same double reverse-pleated chinos that he’s worn throughout the movie—in black, of course. The trousers have straight pockets along each side-seam and jetted back pockets that each close with a single-button.

To be consistent with his cowboy boots, Vinny wears a black leather Western style belt with matched brushed steel hardware consisting of a big curved single-prong square buckle, pointed tip, and two keepers. Decent belts like this can range from $30 to $40 on Amazon while more exotic leathers like lizard and ostrich are available for a few hundred dollars from established bootmakers like Lucchese. Vinny’s belt is so long that he is forced to tie the end around itself, where it hangs down suggestively by his fly.

At least his shirt is tucked in... though maybe that's not doing him any favors.

At least his shirt is tucked in… though maybe that’s not doing him any favors.

The plain hems of Vinny’s trousers bottoms are rolled up once for a self-cuff over the shafts of his boots for, as he did in Goodfellas, Joe Pesci enhances his height with a pair of raised-heel cowboy boots. In fact, these boots are the first we see of Vinny when he steps out of his Cadillac upon peeling into Beechum County.

“I fit in better than you!” he responds to Mona Lisa’s criticism. “At least I’m wearin’ cowboy boots!”

“Oh, yeah, you blend,” she responds with decided sarcasm.

Vinny, blending.

Vinny, blending.

Whether or not the boots help Vinny to “blend” is a matter of debate that we’ll leave to his litigation skills, so we’ll stick to the undeniable facts: the boots are black leather with decorative tonal stitching on the shaft where years of wear are evident. The boots have been further customized with pointed silver tips and heel guards.

Underneath the boots, Vinny diverts from his black clothing to sport a pair of plain white crew socks, the very type that Llewelyn Moss had so clearly specified with his own boots in No Country for Old Men.

Just a cozy night in at a motel, studying Alabama's rules of criminal procedure.

Just a cozy night in at a motel, studying Alabama’s rules of criminal procedure.

Although his socks are white, Vinny’s underwear is typically all black, including his loose-fitting sleeveless undershirts and black cotton boxer shorts that he wears when lounging around the motel room.

A little something for the ladies.

A little something for the ladies.

Vinny loads up his arms with as much gold jewelry as Tony Soprano from a chain-link bracelet on his right wrist and a watch on his left to a ring on each pinky.

The right hand pinky ring appears to have a small diamond while the signet ring on his left has a flat black surface with what appears to be a gold knight’s head emerging from it.

Vinny's the kind of guy who not only keeps a deck of cards in his pocket but also uses said cards to convince a guy to risk his life to prove that Vinny's amateur lawyering can save him.

Vinny’s the kind of guy who not only keeps a deck of cards in his pocket but also uses said cards to convince a guy to risk his life to prove that Vinny’s amateur lawyering can save him.

Following a decade where Tom Cruise famously sported Ray-Bans in three of his biggest movies (Wayfarers in Risky Business, Aviators in Top Gun, and Clubmasters in Rain Man), Joe Pesci gives the brand some extra screen time when Vinny emerges from his Cadillac in a pair of black-framed Ray-Ban sunglasses with large, round brown-tinted lenses.

Vinny sizes up his new home for the next few weeks.

Vinny sizes up his new home for the next few weeks.

Eyewear expert Preston Fassel gave me a helpful hand by noting the black metal frame that first emerged as a trend in the early ’90s, so his sunglasses were likely relatively new at the time of My Cousin Vinny‘s production. “As a result, Pesci’s frames here are distinct in that they lack a bridge. Aviators are often called ‘double bars’ in the optical world, so it’s noteworthy when metal frames lack them,” Preston informed me.

Preston further deduced that the style itself is likely Ray-Ban’s attempt to mimic the Persol 714 that Steve McQueen had made famous. Both Persol and Ray-Ban were separate entities in the early ’90s but, over the course of the decade, both would be vertically integrated into the Milan-based eyewear behemoth Luxottica Group.

The Vintage Suit

MY COUSIN VINNY

I bought a suit—you seen it—now it’s covered in mud. This town doesn’t have a one hour cleaner so I had to buy a new suit, except the only store you could buy a new suit in has got the flu. You get that? The whole store got the flu. So I had to get this in a second hand store. So it’s either wear the leather jacket, which I know you hate, or this… so, I wore this ridiculous thing for you.

Vinny makes quite an impression on Judge Haller’s courtroom when he shows up at trial wearing a fiery Gilded Age-inspired vintage three-piece suit complete with tailcoat and grosgrain piping. The color of the suit is a rusty red-brown accented with burnt orange grosgrain piping on the coat’s broad peak lapels and down the low V-shaped opening of the matching waistcoat.

The tailcoat has a decorative double-breasted front with three non-functioning buttons on each side before the coat cuts away at the waist on a sharp right angle. The coat has no external pockets and a single decorative button on each cuff.

The backless waistcoat fastens at the back of the neck and has four flat plastic sew-through buttons down the front, though Vinny correctly leaves the lowest button undone at the notched bottom. The flat front trousers have slanted pockets and a tuxedo-style side braid down each leg.

Vinny’s pink cotton shirt has a narrowly pleated bib, front placket, and button cuffs. Though it is likely meant to echo the detachable collars from shirts of yore, the white cutaway spread collar is attached to the shirt. Vinny wears a loosely pre-tied burgundy bow tie with the ensemble.

MY COUSIN VINNY

How to Get the Look

It may not be orthodox for courtroom attire, but Vinny Gambini’s all-black, leather-anchored, cowboy-influenced aesthetic differentiates him as an individualist who takes pride in the fact that he has a defined style if not in the clothes themselves.

Joe Pesci and Marisa Tomei in My Cousin Vinny (1992)

Joe Pesci and Marisa Tomei in My Cousin Vinny (1992)

  • Black leather sport jacket with wide shawl collar, welted breast pocket, widely jetted hip pockets, functional 2-button cuff vents, and ventless back
  • Black or gray patterned button-up shirt with point collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Black chino double reverse-pleated trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, button-through jetted back pockets, and self-cuffed plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather Western belt with brushed steel single-prong curved buckle, pointed tip, and two keepers
  • Black cowboy boots with decorative shaft stitching
  • White crew socks
  • Black sleeveless undershirt
  • Gold pendant on rope-twist necklace
  • Gold chain-link bracelet
  • Gold wristwatch with black rectangular dial on flat gold bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with diamond
  • Gold pinky ring with knight’s head on black flat surface
  • Ray-Ban black metal-framed sunglasses with large brown-tinted lenses

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

You like to renegotiate as you go along, don’t you? Well, here’s my counter-offer… do I have to kill you? What if I were just to kick the ever-loving shit out of you?

Curb Your Enthusiasm: “Chet’s Shirt”

$
0
0
Larry David on Curb Your Enthusiasm (Episode 3.01: "Chet's Shirt")

Larry David on Curb Your Enthusiasm (Episode 3.01: “Chet’s Shirt”)

Vitals

Larry David as himself, a neurotic comedy writer

Los Angeles, Summer 2002

Series: Curb Your Enthusiasm
Episode: “Chet’s Shirt” (Episode 3.01)
Air Date: September 15, 2002
Director: Robert B. Weide
Creator: Larry David
Costume Designer: Wendy Range Rao

Background

Larry David, style icon… nope, the phrase still doesn’t sound right, even two years later. Let’s cut him a break, though, as tomorrow is his birthday!

The comedian, writer, and creator of Seinfeld was born 72 years ago tomorrow—July 2, 1947—in Brooklyn. After a career spent behind the scenes, first as a writer on Saturday Night Live before he teamed up with Jerry Seinfeld, Larry finally decided to take a primary role in front of the camera by portraying an even more neurotic version of himself on Curb Your Enthusiasm. What began as an hourlong HBO special has turned into ten seasons and counting of an improvisational comedy masterpiece.

Larry’s latent passion for menswear rears its head in “Chet’s Shirt”, not only regarding the titular top but also his choice to make a major investment in an elegant new restaurant… almost certainly for the sole reason that he would be put in charge of determining the waitstaff’s uniforms.

Larry: Hey, how ’bout this?
Jeff: That’s what you want the waiters to wear?
Larry: Yeah, why not?
Jeff: So you want the waiters to dress like you?
Larry: Why’s that bad?

What’d He Wear?

Two years after Curb Your Enthusiasm premiered with an opening shot of Larry David’s “pants tent”, the third season began with yet another clothing-focused episode, this time the eponymous “Chet’s Shirt”, a black-and-cream silk shirt that Larry envies after spying it in a photo of his friend Barbara’s deceased husband Chet.

The recently deceased Chet models a Nat Nast shirt that becomes Larry's latest obsession.

The recently deceased Chet models a Nat Nast shirt that becomes Larry’s latest obsession.

“Boy, I love this shirt. That is exactly the kinda shirt that I would wear, don’t you think?” After some uncomfortable prodding of Chet’s widow, Larry finally finds out from Barbara (Caroline Aaron) that the shirt was likely purchased from Caruso’s on Wilshire Boulevard.

Sure enough, the next time we see Larry, he’s happily jaunting along Ocean Avenue with Jeff, sporting a black-and-cream silk shirt that could only be his latest purchase from Caruso’s, one of only three from the store’s remaining stock. When they get to their lunch meeting, even Ted Danson can’t help but to comment on Larry’s “really nice” shirt and ask where he got it. “Actually, I saw a dead guy’s picture,” Larry responds evasively—but not inaccurately.

After Ted’s compliment, Larry decides to buy the two remaining shirts from Caruso’s—one as a gift for Ted and one as a personal backup. “I always ruin my shirts, I stain ’em, and I like it; it’d be good to have an extra one. Is it crazy to have two of the same shirt?” Larry asks. Larry’s in luck, as the salesman is able to find the two last shirts in Caruso’s stock and holds them up, revealing the signature gold-embroidered-on-black Nat Nast label.

Larry buys the remaining stock of black-and-cream Nat Nast shirts from Caruso's.

Larry buys the remaining stock of black-and-cream Nat Nast shirts from Caruso’s.

“Come on, feel this material, this is beautiful,” Larry urges his wife, and you get a sense that George Costanza’s material-feeling gaffe may have had some genesis with the real-life Larry. He has a point, though, as Nat Nast has offered this “Rockabilly” shirt in several luxurious fabrics, including a 70/30 silk-viscose blend as well as 100% silk. Likely made from the latter, Larry’s shirt has long sleeves that button at the cuffs with a one-piece “Italian-style” camp collar, five smoke-gray plastic sew-through buttons down the plain front, and back side pleats. The mostly black shirt has wide cream panels on the front that extend from the shoulder seams down to the bottom of the shirt with cream contrast stitching along the inside.

Given his usual approach to dressing, the oversized Nat Nast shirt still looks "pretty, pretty good" on Larry David.

Given his usual approach to dressing, the oversized Nat Nast shirt still looks “pretty, pretty good” on Larry David.

Like all of his shirts, Larry’s new acquisition is oversized, dwarfing his already slim frame with its baggy fit. He wears it over a cotton crew-neck short-sleeve T-shirt in charcoal gray, just a shade lighter than the black of his shirt but hardly much of a contrast. His black trousers are likely pleated and worn with a belt.

Unfortunately, Larry counters his all-time style high of the Nat Nast shirt and black pants with a pair of uninspired gray sneakers and white tube socks. “I’m really happy with my new sneakers,” Larry shared in the previous season’s fifth episode. “You know, ’cause they’re gray. And, if you think about it, it’s a good color, ’cause white is really too bright and black is like a pair of shoes. And gray is kind of like right in the middle. They look good.”

Ted joins Larry, now down to his second of three Nat Nast shirts, for an afternoon spent watching The Wizard of Oz.

Ted joins Larry, now down to his second of three Nat Nast shirts, for an afternoon spent watching The Wizard of Oz.

You can read more about Larry David’s approach to sneakers in this 2017 article by Alec Banks for High Snobiety. The shoes seen in this episode do not appear to be New Balance, Nike Jordan, or Simple OS, all brands or models often associated with Larry’s real-life favored footwear.

Larry wears his usual watch which has been identified as an 18-karat white gold Patek Gondolo 5124 with a square rose gold dial and tan crocodile strap.

A day in the life of Larry David.

A day in the life of Larry David.

Larry also continues to wear his usual round-framed glasses with transition lenses, which Oliver Peoples claims as its own MP-3 model.

The Sopranos Connections

Despite his “character” being cast in a Martin Scorsese joint by the season’s end, there’s still little about Larry David that looks like the classic Italian-American gangster…until you realize that Chet’s shirt makes numerous appearances on The Sopranos. Interestingly, the shirt is always worn by men of considerable girth, the opposite in body shape from the lean and lanky Larry David.

Almost midway through “Two Tonys” (Episode 5.01), the fifth season premiere, Tony Soprano (James Gandolfini) enters his uncle’s home to visit an older mobster recently released from prison. Tony wears a black-and-cream Nat Nast “Rockabilly” shirt, identical to Larry’s in every respect except that Tony wears the short-sleeved version as opposed to Larry’s long-sleeved shirt.

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano in "Two Tonys" (Episode 5.01)

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano in “Two Tonys” (Episode 5.01)

Two episodes after Tony graced his kitchen with his own short-sleeved version of Chet’s shirt, his uncle Corrado “Junior” Soprano (Dominic Chianese) is flipping through the channels of his newly obtained cable service and catches sight of Larry and Jeff on Curb Your Enthusiasm, mistaking the pair for himself and his overweight caretaker Bobby Bacala (Steven R. Schirripa).

As Junior frantically tries to decipher Larry and Jeff’s misadventures with a Judy doll in the famous episode “The Doll” (Episode 2.07), his drowsy, elderly caretaker Tommy Di Palma (Ed Setrakian) tries to reassure him that the episode is nothing more than a TV pro-grum.

Junior: "The fuck... why am I on there?" Tommy: "What? It's not you." Junior: "What's that, my trial? That's Bobby! The fuck is this?" Tommy: "Junior, that's not you, it's a TV pro-grum. A movie."

Junior: “The fuck… why am I on there?”
Tommy: “What? It’s not you.”
Junior: “What’s that, my trial? That’s Bobby! The fuck is this?”
Tommy: “Junior, that’s not you, it’s a TV pro-grum. A movie.”

In the very next scene, Bobby himself strolls into the back room of the Bing… wearing a black-and-cream color-blocked shirt almost identical to the Nat Nast “Chet’s Shirt” that Tony had worn two episodes earlier. Bobby’s shirt, however, appears to be a lighter-weight linen or linen-silk blend as opposed to the full-silk version that Tony wears.

Steven R. Schirripa as Bobby "Bacala" Baccalieri in "Where's Johnny?" (Episode 5.03).

Steven R. Schirripa as Bobby “Bacala” Baccalieri in “Where’s Johnny?” (Episode 5.03).

A season later, Vito Spatafore (Joseph R. Gannascoli) wears his own black-and-cream short-sleeved Nat Nast “Rockabilly” during his idyllic retreat to Dartford, New Hampshire. The shirt briefly appears in “Johnny Cakes” (Episode 6.08) while Vito subjects himself to the inane conversation of his fellow B&B guests. Despite being such a Jersey-friendly shirt, the only time Vito wears it is when he’s away from his mob colleagues.

Vito Spatafore in the peaceful hamlet of Dartford, New Hampshire, in "Johnny Cakes" (Episode 6.08), sporting a Nat Nast "Rockabilly" silk shirt with his Oris watch.

Vito Spatafore in the peaceful hamlet of Dartford, New Hampshire, in “Johnny Cakes” (Episode 6.08), sporting a Nat Nast “Rockabilly” silk shirt with his Oris watch.

Tony’s Nat Nast fandom reappears in full force in “Irregular Around the Margins” (Episode 5.05), first with a brown-and-cream silk short-sleeved shirt and finally a unique black-and-navy version in the same cut and style, both times for scenes that end in Tony arguing with Carmela about his supposed sexual interlude with an underling’s fiancee.

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano in "Irregular Around the Margins" (Episode 5.05)

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano in “Irregular Around the Margins” (Episode 5.05)

How to Get the Look

Larry David on Curb Your Enthusiasm (Episode 3.01: "Chet's Shirt")

Larry David on Curb Your Enthusiasm (Episode 3.01: “Chet’s Shirt”)

Larry David may not be known for his sense of style, but there’s a reason that both he and Ted Danson find themselves so drawn to this classic silk shirt.

  • Black-and-cream color-blocked silk Nat Nast “Rockabilly” long-sleeve camp shirt with five-button plain front and button cuffs
  • Charcoal cotton crew-neck T-shirt
  • Black pleated trousers with belt loops and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather belt
  • Gray sneakers with white laces and white outsoles
  • White tube socks with black top trim
  • Oliver Peoples MP-3 glasses with round transition lenses
  • Patek Gondolo 5124 white gold wristwatch with rose gold rectangular dial on tan leather strap

Though the Rockabilly is no longer available from Nat Nast’s collection, older versions are relatively abundant from used clothing sellers online at places like eBay and Poshmark. I was able to find two short-sleeved versions on eBay—one linen, one silk—that are very comfortable.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out Curb Your Enthusiasm, and find this episode at the start of the show’s third season.

The Quote

I don’t like talking to people I know, but strangers I have no problem with.

Alain Delon’s Black Linen Shirt in Purple Noon

$
0
0
Alain Delon as Tom Ripley in Purple Noon (1960)

Alain Delon as Tom Ripley in Purple Noon (1960)

Vitals

Alain Delon as Tom Ripley, charming American con artist and sophisticated sociopath

on Mediterranean Sea off Italy, August 1959

Film: Purple Noon
(French title: Plein soleil)
Release Date: March 10, 1960
Director: René Clément
Costume Designer: Bella Clément

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

As I leave for my annual week at the beach tomorrow, I’ll be hoping to channel the style—if not the discomfort and petty cruelty—of the idyllic-looking, sun-drenched Mediterranean voyage where sociopathic American con man Tom Ripley (Alain Delon) forms an uncomfortable seagoing trio with the brash, arrogant playboy Philippe Greenleaf (Maurice Ronet) and Philippe’s demure girlfriend Marge (Marie Laforêt).

Clearly, a fun time was had by all.

Clearly, a fun time was had by all.

After one of Philippe’s “pranks” leaves him with a bad case of sun poisoning, Tom retreats to his bunk on the boat for endless rounds of solitaire when Philippe attempts to apologize for his prank-gone-wrong… and Tom solidifies his plan for revenge.

Marge returns to the Italian shore after discovering evidence (planted by Tom) of Philippe’s infidelity, leaving an uneasy tension between the two men who continue sailing and agree to bury the hatchet (so to speak) over a poker game. The stakes rise quite dramatically as Tom breezily admits to the plan he has concocted to murder Philippe and steal his identity. Once he realizes he can’t dismiss Tom as joking, Philippe panics and offers his former friend a substantial sum to stay away from he and Marge. Tom appears to accept the offer… until he pulls a Bowie knife and stabs Philippe to death!

For anyone who hadn’t read Patricia Highsmith’s original 1955 psychological thriller novel, the murder is shocking. We knew there was some tension between the two men, but the film had established Tom as its central character… surely he wouldn’t brutally murder a “friend” in cold blood? And yet, thanks to Patricia Highsmith’s compelling narrative, René Clément’s masterful direction, and the chillingly charming performance of 24-year-old Alain Delon, we buy it… and we can’t help but to root for the wily Tom to evade justice.

What’d He Wear?

When Tom Ripley first sets sail with Philippe and Marge, he spends a pleasant day at sea wearing a pink linen shirt with his usual cream jeans, feeling so carefree that he falls asleep in the sunlight… until Philippe sets the sleeping Tom loose in a dinghy, overexposing him to the sun and leaving Tom with a bad case of sun poisoning.

As Tom recovers back on Philippe’s yacht, he’s already shifted toward villainy, symbolized by his rejection of the brightly colored pink linen as he sits alone, now clad in a black linen long-sleeved camp shirt. Black clothing is traditionally symbolic of evil (consider Darth Vader), but the choice of a black shirt is also practical for Tom as it protects his sun-poisoned skin while the lightweight linen material allows the air to flow through and prevents him from overheating.

PLEIN SOLEIL

Tom’s black shirt is constructed of slubbed linen or a linen and silk blend, a comfortable and luxurious material for summer shirts. The shirt has a plain front with horizontal button holes for the five large off-white plastic 2-hole sew-through buttons with a loop on the left side of the camp collar that fastens an unseen button under the right collar leaf.

The long-sleeved shirt also closes with a single button on each cuff and has two button-through chest pockets. The shirt’s straight hem allows Tom wear it fashionably untucked, which he does.

Tom has no qualms about sharing with Philippe his desire to murder the man.

Tom has no qualms about sharing with Philippe his desire to murder the man.

Tom’s cream cotton twill jeans are the same that he has worn throughout the first half of Plein soleil, held up with a black leather belt that closes through a squared steel single-prong buckle. These button-fly jeans are configured with the traditional five-pocket layout of two in the back and two in the front plus a coin pocket on the right side.

PLEIN SOLEIL

Cream, beige, or light khaki have been stylish alternatives to classic blue denim jeans since the beginning of the latter half of the 20th century, thus some of the most prolific jeans manufacturers have expanded their lines to include offerings in this color spectrum.

Philippe does not allow Tom to wear shoes on his boat, so Tom discards the navy-and-white rope-soled espadrilles he had worn when boarding and walks the decks barefoot with the bottoms of his cream jeans cuffed up.

Tom prepares to take his revenge on Philippe.

Tom prepares to take his revenge on Philippe.

Tom wears his usual gold necklace with a round gold pendant.

PLEIN SOLEIL

On his left wrist, Tom wears his usual plain steel wristwatch on a navy strap.

Solitaire at sea.

Solitaire at sea.

Let’s Go Shopping

(All prices as of June 26, 2019.)

The Shirt:

    • Basic Rights black Tencel long-sleeved camp shirt with white buttons, set-in breast pocket (Basic Rights, $130)
    • 28 Palms black linen long-sleeved guayabera with camp collar, smoke buttons, four pockets, alforzas (Amazon, $45… also available in short-sleeve)
    • Cubavera black linen/rayon long-sleeved guayabera with point collar, black buttons, four pockets, alforzas (Amazon, $59.05)
    • H&M black linen long-sleeved shirt with point collar, white buttons, breast pocket (H&M, $49.99)
    • Island Importer “Amalfi Shirt” in black linen with “Roma” spread collar, black buttons, straight hem (Island Importer, $60)
    • Isle Bay “slim fit” black linen long-sleeved shirt with point collar, white buttons, breast pocket (Amazon, $28.90)
    • Isle Bay “standard fit” black linen long-sleeved shirt with button-down collar, white buttons, flapped pocket (Amazon, $19.50)
    • J. Crew Factory “deep harbor” slim linen long-sleeved shirt with button-down collar, white buttons, breast pocket (J. Crew Factory, $29.50)
    • Lucky Brand “Havana Linen” long-sleeved shirt with point collar, brown buttons, and two flapped breast pockets (Lucky Brand, $79.50)
    • Short Fin linen long-sleeved shirt with point collar, white buttons, breast pocket, and roll-up sleeve tabs (Amazon, $26.50-$32.50)

The Jeans:

    • Dockers Straight Fit Jean with zip fly in “new British khaki” 60% cotton/37% polyester/3% elastane stretch fabric (Amazon)
    • Levi’s Men’s 502 Regular Taper Jean with zip fly in “true chino/bull denim” 98% cotton/2% spandex (Amazon)
    • Levi’s Men’s 541 Athletic Taper Fit Jean with zip fly in “timberwolf/cruz twill” 65% cotton/33% polyester/2% elastane (Amazon)
    • Lucky Brand 121 Slim Jean with zip fly in “saddle” 98% cotton/2% elastane (Lucky Brand)
    • Signature by Levi Strauss & Co. Gold Label Straight Jeans with zip fly in “British khaki” 99% cotton/1% elastane (Amazon)
    • Wrangler Classic Relaxed Fit Jean with button fly in “khaki flex” 99% cotton/1% spandex (Amazon)

The Watch:

    • Timex Weekender TW2T29200 with round silver-toned brass case, cream dial, and blue nylon strap (Amazon, $38.84)

How to Get the Look

Alain Delon as Tom Ripley in Purple Noon (1960)

Alain Delon as Tom Ripley in Purple Noon (1960)

Despite the bright sun shining down on them, Tom Ripley (Alain Delon) dresses for a dark day at sea in Plein soleil with a black linen shirt balanced by his go-to cream jeans for a classic casual summer look.

  • Black slubbed linen camp shirt with looped camp collar, plain front, two button-through chest pockets, and button cuffs (all with large white plastic 2-hole sew-through buttons)
  • Cream cotton jeans with belt loops, button-fly, five-pocket layout, and self-cuffed bottoms
  • Black leather belt with squared steel single-prong buckle
  • Gold pendant necklace on thin gold chain
  • Steel watch with round silver dial on navy blue strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

I might not look it, but I’ve got lots of imagination.

Jurassic Park: Jeff Goldblum as Dr. Ian Malcolm

$
0
0
Jeff Goldblum as Dr. Ian Malcolm in Jurassic Park (1993)

Jeff Goldblum as Dr. Ian Malcolm in Jurassic Park (1993)

Vitals

Jeff Goldblum as Dr. Ian Malcolm, “rock star” chaos theorist

“Isla Nublar”, 120 miles west of Costa Rica, Summer 1993

Film: Jurassic Park
Release Date: June 11, 1993
Director: Steven Spielburg
Costumes: Mitchell Ray Kenney, Sue Moore, Kelly Porter, and Eric H. Sandberg

Background

International Dinosaur Day is celebrated twice a year, always on June 1st but also the third Tuesday in May, making today—May 19, 2020—the first observance of Dinosaur Day for the year. Why the chaotic timing?

The answer to questions like that may rest with a chaos theorist like Dr. Ian Malcolm, the swaggering, skeptical, and somewhat frantic mathematician portrayed by Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park, adapted from Michael Crichton’s novel.

“I bring the scientists, you bring a rock star,” the park’s exuberant founder John Hammond (Richard Attenborough) comments upon the first impressions that Dr. Malcolm makes on Hammond’s distinguished guests from the scientific community, Drs. Alan Grant (Sam Neill) and Ellie Sattler (Laura Dern).

“You’ll have to get used to Dr. Malcolm, he suffers from a deplorable excessive personality… especially for a mathematician,” Hammond adds. “Chaotician,” Ian corrects.

Despite the chaotician’s cavalier attitude, Ian proves to be the first of the group that was selected to audit the island’s safety to vocalize his well-informed skepticism of Hammond’s manipulation of nature, decrying the “violent, penetrative act” of discovery. Although unapologetically presenting himself as a bit of a cad—e.g. proudly declaring that he’s “always on the lookout for the next ex-Mrs. Malcolm”—Ian illustrates his heroism early on, creating a diversion to draw the attention of a Tyrannosaurus rex so that Dr. Grant could save Hammond’s two endangered grandchildren. The gambit results in an injury for Dr. Malcolm, with the more gruesome fate is reserved for the cowardly “bloodsucking lawyer” Donald Gennero (Martin Ferrero).

Ian’s leg injury puts him relatively out of commission for the rest of the movie’s action, though this doesn’t prevent Jeff Goldblum from deep breathing through a few seconds of ostensible fanservice that has been immortalized by countless GIFs, a Funko POP! figure, and even a 25-foot statue erected in London for Jurassic Park‘s 25th anniversary.

JURASSIC PARK

The legacy of the moment hasn’t been lost on Goldblum himself, who has recounted the moment as what felt like an organic addition to a scene in a tropical climate where his wounded character was “suffering manfully.”

What’d He Wear?

While the khaki-clad scientists are clearly dressed for an expedition into nature and Hammond’s white guayabera and matching slacks are ideal for the tropical climate, Dr. Ian Malcolm is blatantly dressed for neither.

The screenplay described Ian’s attire only as “all in black, with snakeskin boots and sunglasses,” consistent with the literary Malcolm telling Ellie Sattler that he only dresses in black and gray so as to avoid wasting any time considering his outfit. (The book, released in 1990, may have borrowed from Goldblum’s previous explanation for his character’s fashion in 1986’s The Fly, which he suggested was inspired by Albert Einstein.) It’s not surprising that fellow mathematicians Einstein and Malcolm would share similar approaches to dressing, and we know Albert appreciated leather jackets as well via the Levi’s “Menlo” he notably wore for his Time magazine cover in 1938.

For his trip to Isla Nublar, Dr. Malcolm drapes his all-black underpinnings with a black leather jacket, detailed like a sports jacket and slightly oversized per prevailing trends of the early ’90s. The single-breasted jacket has notch lapels with a buttonhole through the left lapel. The jacket has a two flat black plastic sew-through buttons to close, bisected by a seam that extends across the jacket’s waist line and meets the top of each widely jetted hip pocket. Malcolm’s leather jacket also has a welted breast pocket, single vent, and functioning three-button cuffs.

Unlike his companions, the maverick Dr. Malcolm seemingly had no interest in changing his normal style of dress for the climate or context.

Unlike his companions, the maverick Dr. Malcolm seemingly had no interest in changing his normal style of dress for the climate or context.

Jeff Goldblum wears his black leather jacket at the Beverly Hills premiere of The Favour, the Watch and the Very Big Fish, dressed in the same jacket he would wear later that year as Dr. Ian Malcolm in Jurassic Park.

Jeff Goldblum in May 1992, wearing the same black leather jacket he would wear later that year as Dr. Ian Malcolm in Jurassic Park. (Photo by Ron Galella)

Ian Malcolm may survive the events of Jurassic Park, but his leather jacket remains a casualty, ostensibly abandoned in the Ford Explorer before his heroic, flare-blazing dash to save the Hammond grandchildren. Evidently, he prioritized picking up a replacement in the years to follow as he’s seen wearing a strikingly similar garment by the events of The Lost World.

Goldblum’s original screen-worn leather jacket from Jurassic Park was just auctioned in December 2019. The iCollector listing shares that the jacket was a product of North Beach Leathers Co., an appropriate fit for the “rock star” theorist as the San Francisco-based leather shop started by Bill Morgan in 1967 had crafted eight custom-made leather suits for Elvis Presley in the early ’70s.

In fact, it’s most likely that this jacket was Goldblum’s own. In May 1992, three months before filming had even started on Jurassic Park, Goldblum was photographed by Ron Galella attending the Beverly Hills premiere of his film The Favour, the Watch, and the Very Big Fish, wearing the exact same jacket, right down to what the listing describes as the “wishbone-shaped repair”, an inverted V on the jacket’s right shoulder between the armhole and collar that can be clearly seen in the movie.

(Another Galella photo from a separate 1992 event shows Goldblum dressed even closer to Ian Malcolm’s look in a silky black shirt, dark jeans, and even similar glasses.)

Dr. Malcolm finds himself staggered by "the lack of humility before nature."

Dr. Malcolm finds himself staggered by “the lack of humility before nature.”

Dr. Malcolm’s silky black shirt is a collarless “neckband” shirt, a style that rose during the early ’80s as a throwback to the old-fashioned dress shirts that would be worn with stiff collars attached to them via gold studs. When Thomas Magnum and his ilk began wearing these, it was purely for casual wear, though the collarless look became so popular for men that, for a brief—but not brief enough—period during the 1990s, they were popular replacements for dress shirts with black tie (sans the tie, of course), as the otherwise sensible Tom Hanks wore when accepting his second Oscar during the 1995 Academy Awards.

It’s this shirt that Goldblum famously wore fully unbuttoned for the brief vignette as he observes the action from a corner of the room, though he mostly wears the shirt’s black buttons fastened up the plain front to mid-chest through the horizontal buttonholes, revealing much of his exposed chest as well as the sterling silver chain-link necklace he wears with a turquoise setting on the uneven pendant. The shirt also has a breast pocket and button cuffs, which he often wears unfastened and rolled up past his elbows.

JURASSIC PARK

Invariably blue for the better part of a century, jeans first prominently appeared in black denim during the 1950s, a decade when jeans themselves were transforming from workwear icon to countercultural symbol thanks to wearers like Marlon Brando, James Dean, and Elvis Presley.

Ian Malcolm may have dressed with form rather than function in mind for his trip to Isla Nublar, but at least his selection of black pants are the more durable denim jeans than dressier trousers or slacks. He wears them with a thick black edge-stitched leather belt with a gold-toned single prong buckle, removing the belt and using it to tourniquet his own leg after sustaining an injury distracting the T-rex from chasing Tim and Lex.

While Drs. Grant and Sattler seek to diagnose the sick Triceratops's ailment by excavating its excrement, Dr. Malcolm can't help but to be amazed by "one big pile of shit."

While Drs. Grant and Sattler seek to diagnose the sick Triceratops‘s ailment by excavating its excrement, Dr. Malcolm can’t help but to be amazed by “one big pile of shit.”

Consistent with his “bad boy” persona, Dr. Malcolm’s black harness boots are an evolution of the motorcycle boots famously worn by James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause.

Unlike the adjustable leather strap rigged across the ankle on traditional engineer boots, harness boots are distinguished by a ring on each side of the ankle that is fitted through a system of four non-adjustable straps: one across the top of the foot, one around the heel, and a shorter one that connects the ring to the sole on each side. Straps tend to be secured around the ring with a single or double stud fastening, with the latter more prevalent. These strap-and-ring elements were added when this square-toed boot was pioneered in the 1960s to provide extra protection to motorcyclists.

Many bootmakers have specialized in harness boots of different colors and sizes since they were pioneered during the 1960s with makers including Ad Tec (via Amazon), Durango (via Amazon and Boot Barn), Frye (via Amazon and Boot Barn), Harley Davidson (via Amazon and Boot Barn), and King Rocks (via Amazon).

"Must go faster..."

“Must go faster…”

Ian Malcolm’s tinted glasses with their solid black rectangular frames are part of his signature look. With the double silver pin detailing on the temples, Ian’s specs are widely believed to be Oliver Peoples, supported by a CR Men article presented by OP as well as the character’s inclusion in a list of OP wearers published in Waterloo, Iowa’s The Courier in 1997. Of the brand’s current offerings, the Oliver Peoples OV5102 “Denison” in matte black acetate look to be the nearest modern approximation to Dr. Malcolm’s eyewear (available via Amazon or Oliver Peoples).

In the decades since Jurassic Park, Goldblum has continued to incorporate distinctive glasses and sunglasses into his off-screen looks, with Jacque Marie Mage and Tom Ford particularly cited in recent examples.

JURASSIC PARK

Ian wears a large sterling silver statement ring on the third finger of his right hand, ornately detailed with the relief cast of an eagle spreading its wings, flanked by a small coral stone and a turquoise stone in sawtooth settings, the latter coordinating with the pendant around his neck. This ring was also auctioned in December 2019 with more details and a photo of the actual ring found on iCollector. Similar attractive rings can be found by searching the wares of Native American artisans like this similar piece by Navajo artist Grace Smith (via Little Feathers).

He also wears a stainless steel chronograph with a black dial, secured around his left wrist with a black leather strap top-stitched along the edges. Though the watch remains unidentified as of April 2020, a WatchUSeek forum has yielded suggestions including Breitling, Dodane, Hamilton, and Heuer, the latter thought to be the most likely contender.

Dr. Malcolm attempts to work his chaotic charm on Dr. Sattler. (In real life, Jeff Goldblum and Laura Dern would date for two years following the production of Jurassic Park.

Dr. Malcolm attempts to work his chaotic charm on Dr. Sattler. (In real life, Jeff Goldblum and Laura Dern would date for two years following the production of Jurassic Park.

Jeff Goldblum as Dr. Ian Malcolm in Jurassic Park (1993)

Jeff Goldblum as Dr. Ian Malcolm in Jurassic Park (1993)

How to Get the Look

It’s difficult to ascertain how much Jeff Goldblum‘s personal style influenced Ian Malcolm’s on-screen attire in Jurassic Park (or vice versa)… but it’s safe to say that if it’s black, Dr. Malcolm would wear it.

  • Black leather single-breasted two-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, functional 3-button cuffs, and single vent
  • Black silk neckband shirt with plain front, breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Black denim jeans
  • Black leather belt with gold-toned single-prong buckle
  • Black leather harness boots with silver rings
  • Black socks (assumed)
  • Black rectangular-framed tinted Oliver Peoples glasses
  • Gold chain-link necklace with turquoise-set pendant
  • Stainless silver eagle relief-cast ring with sawtooth-set coral and turquoise stones
  • Stainless steel chronograph watch with black dial on black edge-stitched leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and Michael Crichton’s original novel.

For more of Goldblum’s insight into Jurassic Park, I suggest this 25th anniversary retrospective interview with Bill Bradley for The Huffington Post.

The Quote

Life, uh, finds a way.

Tony Soprano’s Black Bullethole Shirt in “The Weight”

$
0
0
James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 4.04: "The Weight")

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos (Episode 4.04: “The Weight”)

Vitals

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano, New Jersey mob boss

New Jersey, Fall 2001

Series: The Sopranos
Episode: “The Weight” (Episode 4.04)
Air Date: October 6, 2002
Director: Jack Bender
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

Background

I know it’s only been a week since my last post about the style of The Sopranos, but I have a great reason for returning to my favorite show as today happens to be the birthday of my friend Gabe, the hardworking curator of @tonysopranostyle on Instagram. Having attained more than 30,000 followers in less than a year on the platform, @tonysopranostyle remains an authoritative and entertaining source of information for everything James Gandolfini wore during his iconic tenure portraying the boss of the New Jersey Mafia, from his boldly printed shirts and velvet tracksuits to his gold jewelry and cigars.

Not just an expert, Gabe also puts his money where his mouth is, tracking down and purchasing many shirts in the original designs from the manufacturers who were sourced by costume designer Juliet Polcsa for the series. Gabe started his collection in late 2016 when, having read Christopher Hooton’s interview with Polcsa for The Independent, he used the brands cited by Polcsa to find a black Alan Stuart shirt with the same scattered abstract pattern that Gandolfini wore for a few scenes in the fourth season episode “The Weight”.

Two episodes after Ralph Cifaretto made his ill-natured joke about Ginny Sack and her “90-pound mole”, the off-handed quip rose to influence the central plot and even title of this fourth episode of The Sopranos‘ fourth season. Despite trying to avoid the fray, Tony is reluctantly enlisted by New York boss Carmine Lupertazzi to organize a hit against Johnny Sack due to concerns that the protective John would go rogue and take Ralph out himself.

“Fucked-up thing is I don’t even like Ralph,” Tony complains of his role in the messy situation. “If he were drowning, I’d throw him a cinder block.”

What’d He Wear?

Gabe told me he instantly recognized this viscose Alan Stuart shirt from “The Weight” due to its distinctive motif of shaded gray abstract squares that each have a black dotted center to match the black ground, a shape he likened to bullet holes for their irregular edges and the theme of the series itself. Tony wears a long-sleeved shirt with a point collar, front placket, and pocket, though Alan Stuart evidently used this pattern for a variety of styles, including the short-sleeved banded-bottom polo like Gabe found.

Tony wears a few top buttons of his shirt undone to reveal the low neckline of his white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt and his usual gold St. Jerome pendant worn on a slim open-link necklace.

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos

Tony frequently wears pleated trousers in classic, conservative colors like gray, khaki, taupe, and black, and these double reverse-pleated slacks are no exception, constructed from gray wool to call out the repeating pattern on his shirt. Possibly—and likely—made by his preferred trouser brand Zanella, these trousers have side pockets and turn-ups (cuffs) on the bottom. Tony often wears his button-up shirts untucked, but he tucks in this shirt to reveal a black leather belt with a polished steel single-prong buckle, coorda

Though he usually wears his button-up shirts untucked, Tony tucks in this Alan Stuart shirt and thus reveals his black leather belt that coordinates with his black leather lace-up shoes, probably his go-to Allen-Edmonds derbies.

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos

Frustrated by his role in the Cifaretto-Sacrimoni feud, Tony consults with Uncle Junior (Dominic Chianese) while watching Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?
Am I reading too much into the show’s intentions to assume that choice was made to echo Tony’s earlier-stated concerns about the burden of being a modern-era mob boss: “This day and age? Who wants the fuckin’ job?”

Tony adorns himself with his usual complement of gold jewelry including a pair of rings ranging from the simple wedding band on the third finger of his left hand to the ruby-and-diamond bypass ring on his right pinky. All but covered by the left sleeve of his shirt, Tony wears his signature 18-karat yellow gold Rolex Day-Date ref. 18238 watch with the champagne gold dial, nicknamed the “President” or “Presidential” in reference to its unique semi-circular three-piece link bracelet.

On his right wrist, Tony wears the gold bracelet that @tonysopranostyle describes as resembling “a Cuban curbed link chain and an Italian Figaro link chain with a twist.”

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano on The Sopranos

Gabe also pointed out to me that you can see Patsy Parisi (Dan Grimaldi) wearing a long-sleeved Alan Stuart shirt with an identical pattern two seasons later in the final scene of “Johnny Cakes” (Episode 6.08), worn under his tan suede jacket that resembles early A-1 pattern flight jackets.

Dan Grimaldi as Patsy Parisi on The Sopranos (Episode 6.08)

“What the fuck is happening to this neighborhood?” Patsy bemoans at the end of “Johnny Cakes” (Episode 6.08), dressed in his own Alan Stuart shirt under his suede flight jacket.

While overlapping clothing brands is certainly common in the world of The Sopranos, the noticeable similarities are typically confined to their silk tracksuits from brands like Genelli or the paneled Axis and Nat Nast bowling shirts favored by multiple characters like Tony, Bobby Bacala, Vito Spatafore, and even Larry David if we’re including the extended HBO universe.

Seeing Patsy in an identical shirt as the Skip, albeit in an arguably smaller size to fit the trim Dan Grimaldi, is one of the few times that we would see the same unique shirt worn by different characters. Now if only we got to see Paulie Walnuts wearing that Tabasco polo

How to Get the Look

My friend Gabe, the curator and researcher behind @tonysopranostyle, sports his own "bullethole"-patterned Alan Stuart shirt last year.

My friend Gabe, the curator and researcher behind @tonysopranostyle, sports his own “bullethole”-patterned Alan Stuart shirt last year. Note also his Tony-style accessories of a ruby pinky ring and chain-link bracelet.

@tonysopranostyle perfectly illustrated how to take inspiration from the style of The Sopranos, finding a similarly patterned shirt without directly copying the look. Given the uniqueness of many of Tony’s prints, it’s likely a wiser sartorial philosophy to follow that route of adapting the character’s style rather than mimicking it… even if a member of Tony’s own crew may have chosen the latter path.

  • Black “bullethole”-motif viscose long-sleeved shirt with point collar, front placket, and breast pocket
  • Gray wool double-reverse pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
  • Black leather belt with polished steel squared single-prong buckle
  • Black leather derby shoes
  • Black socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Rolex Day-Date “President” 18238 self-winding chronometer watch in 18-karat yellow gold with champagne-colored dial and Presidential link bracelet
  • Gold curb-chain link bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with bypassing ruby and diamond stones
  • Gold wedding ring
  • Gold open-link chain necklace with round St. Jerome pendant

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the entire series. I also recommend following my friend @tonysopranostyle on Instagram!

The post Tony Soprano’s Black Bullethole Shirt in “The Weight” appeared first on BAMF Style.


Walk the Line: Johnny Cash in Rockabilly White and Black

$
0
0
Joaquin Phoenix as Johnny Cash in Walk the Line (2005)

Joaquin Phoenix as Johnny Cash in Walk the Line (2005)

Vitals

Joaquin Phoenix as Johnny Cash, rising country rock star

Texarkana, Texas, Summer 1955

Film: Walk the Line
Release Date: November 18, 2005
Director: James Mangold
Costume Designer: Arianne Phillips
Tailor: Pam Lisenby

Background

Eighty-nine years ago on February 26, 1932, J.R. Cash was born in Arkansas. His childhood was dominated by music, as there was little else to encourage the family enduring the hard years of the Depression made worse by a dangerous flood and the violent death of Jack, one of the seven Cash children. It was when he joined the military that the 18-year-old Cash expanded his first name as the Air Force wouldn’t allow just initials, though it wasn’t until cutting his first recording at Sun Records that he established the name that would become legendary: Johnny Cash.

Johnny Cash, circa 1955.

Johnny Cash, circa 1955.

I’d long been a fan of Cash’s music, and my girlfriend fiancée Olivia surprised me this Christmas with At Folsom Prison on vinyl, among other great records and Booze & Vinyl: A Spirited Guide to Great Music and Mixed Drinks, a volume by siblings by André and Tenaya Darlington that matches a duo of interesting cocktails with classic albums. It was while enjoying the Darlingtons’ recommended pairing of At Folsom Prison with more than a few of the rum-and-cider concoctions known as a Stone Fence that Liv discovered that she too is a Johnny Cash fan, and it’s been a delight hearing her playing one of my favorite artists.

Just over a year after Cash released his first Sun single, “Cry! Cry! Cry!”, he made his debut at the Grand Ole Opry in Memphis on July 7, 1956. It was while backstage at the Ryman Auditorium that he met June Carter, then two years his senior and a voice he’d long admired from the radio days of his childhood in Dyess.

The two would grow their personal and professional relationship, frequently touring together over the dozen years to follow until June accepted Johnny’s marriage proposal on stage in Toronto in February 1968, just over a month after they recorded the landmark At Folsom Prison. The couple would remain together until her death in May 2003, with Johnny himself to follow only four months later.

What’d He Wear?

June Carter and Johnny Cash meet backstage at the Grand Ole Opry, July 1956.

The 2005 biopic Walk the Line depicts Johnny Cash and June Carter’s first meeting a year earlier in Texarkana, between a characteristically chaotic Jerry Lee Lewis performance and Cash with the Tennessee Two performing “Get Rhythm”. Though the circumstances gently differ between their real-life meeting and the cinematic depiction, costume designer Arianne Phillips paid tribute to recreating Cash’s stage outfit, comprised of a white shawl-collar jacket over a dark shirt, bow tie, and trousers.

As Cash, Joaquin Phoenix wears an off-white single-button jacket in a lightweight cloth with an imperfect slubbing that suggests raw silk. Though the Walk the Line jacket nixes the showy “J.C.” embroidered on the real Cash’s left lapel, the narrow shawl collar is piped in a similar braided gilt embroidery.

The wide, padded shoulders are characteristic of the mid-1950s, and the jacket is additionally detailed with a welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, and a single vent. The sleeves are finished with two non-functioning white buttons at each cuff.

Walk the Line (2005)

Johnny Cash and the Tennessee Two, clad in their white stage jackets with uniquely piped shawl collars. True to his nature, Johnny’s the only one sticking to black underpinnings while the bassist Marshall Grant (Larry Bagby) sports a bright red shirt and laconic guitarist Luther Perkins (Dan John Miller) wears a subdued beige.

Befitting the “Man in Black” image he would cultivate over his career, the rest of Cash’s attire under the gold-piped white jacket is all-black. His flat front trousers are self-suspended at the waist, worn without a belt but possibly fitted with button-tab side adjusters. He also wears black leather shoes, likely lace-ups.

Rather than the long striped Western-style bow tie Cash actually wore for the Opry debut where he met June, Phoenix’s Cash wears a simpler plain black satin bow tie in the straight, narrow style that was fashionable during the fabulous fifties.

Joaquin Phoenix in Walk the Line (2005)

Moments before introducing himself: “Hello. I’m Johnny Cash.”

Walk the Line suggests that Cash’s famous all-black stage wardrobe originated as it was the only shirt color that he, Marshall Grant, and Luther Perkins shared. Once they’re on the road, successfully touring and selling records, this seems to be less of a consideration as the trio opts for matching stage jackets and differently colored shirts, Cash sticking to black for reasons ranging from practical (easier to keep clean while touring) and pointed (symbolizing rebellion).

Rather than the striped black shirt seen in photos from the ’56 Opry appearance, Phoenix’s Cash wears a plain black cotton Western-style work shirt with mother-of-pearl snap closures up the front placket, on the triple-snap cuffs, and fastening the two “sawtooth” double-snap flaps over the chest pockets. The shirt snaps right up to the collar, which is lined along the inside in a beige sateen fabric.

After the performance, he takes off the bow tie and unsnaps the top of his shirt, showing the top of his white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt as he takes a seat next to June at the all-night diner.

Joaquin Phoenix in Walk the Line (2005)

Emboldened by his stage success, Johnny continues his budding friendship with June after a late meal at a local diner.

Once he’d reached (and surpassed) great fame and success, Johnny Cash was a known fan of Rolex watches, including a gold Day-Date on a “President”-style bracelet seen during performances across the late ’70s and into the ’80s. (To read more about the real Cash’s Rolex watches, check out these articles from Rolex Magazine and Revolution.)

We’re not quite there yet at this point in Walk the Line, as Cash has only just evolved from a struggling salesman into one of a half-dozen budding stars on the Sun Records touring lineup. He’s depicted wearing a different yellow gold watch, though the manufacturer and model are unclear to me. On the opposing wrist, he wears a sterling silver chain-link ID bracelet.

He also wears a gold wedding ring symbolizing his first marriage to Vivian, though we witness his commitment get a little hazier once he makes June’s acquaintance.

Joaquin Phoenix in Walk the Line (2005)

Things… aren’t great at home.

How to Get the Look

Joaquin Phoenix as Johnny Cash in Walk the Line (2005)

Joaquin Phoenix as Johnny Cash in Walk the Line (2005)

Inspired by 1950s-era stage suits worn by the real Johnny Cash, costume designer Arianne Phillips rigged Joaquin Phoenix in a black-and-white outfit piped in gold that may not be practical for day-to-day wear but could inform some rockabilly-driven takes on creative black tie.

  • Off-white slubbed silk stage jacket with braided gilt-piped shawl collar, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, vestigial 2-button cuffs, and single vent
  • Black cotton work shirt with snap-up front placket, double-snap “sawtooth” flap chest pockets, and triple-snap cuffs
  • Black narrow bow tie
  • Black flat front self-suspended trousers
  • Black leather lace-up shoes
  • Black socks
  • Sterling silver chain-link ID bracelet
  • Yellow gold wristwatch with gold dial and gold bracelet
  • Gold wedding ring

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie, and pick up some Johnny Cash records. His 1968 live album At Folsom Prison may be personal favorite but to hear Cash at this early stage of his career, I recommend his debut album, Johnny Cash with his Hot and Blue Guitar!

Originally released in October 1957 by Sun Records, this record chronicles some of Cash’s biggest hits from the first three years of his recording career, including “Cry! Cry! Cry!”, “Folsom Prison Blues”, and “I Walk the Line”. The expanded reissue from Columbia includes alternate versions of the latter two hits as well as “Get Rhythm”, the pulsating B-side of “I Walk the Line” that Phoenix performs in this sequence.

The Quote

Hello. I’m Johnny Cash.

The post Walk the Line: Johnny Cash in Rockabilly White and Black appeared first on BAMF Style.

Paris Blues: Sidney Poitier’s Jazzy Flannel Suit

$
0
0
Sidney Poitier in Paris Blues (1961)

Sidney Poitier as Eddie Cook in Paris Blues (1961)

Vitals

Sidney Poitier as Eddie Cook, expatriate jazz saxophonist

Paris, Fall 1960

Film: Paris Blues
Release Date: September 27, 1961
Director: Martin Ritt

Background

Ten years ago, the United Nations established April 30 as International Jazz Day, a global celebration envisioned by Grammy-winning musician and UNESCO Goodwill ambassador Herbie Hancock “to highlight jazz and its diplomatic role of uniting people in all corners of the globe.” The observance feels ideal for taking a first look at the sleek style in Martin Ritt’s cooler-than-ice 1961 drama, Paris Blues, starring Paul Newman and Sidney Poitier as yankee jazzmen making their living in a French nightclub and romancing a pair of American tourists played by Joanne Woodward and Diahann Carroll. 

Paris Blues sourced its material from Harold Flender’s 1957 novel of the same name, which highlighted France’s more accepting racial attitudes as opposed to the United States… though this specific plot point was ironically inverted when United Artists insist that the movie diverge from Flender’s plotline celebrating the interracial romance by instead pairing the couples within their races, a decision that Poitier later said “took the spark out of it.”

Luckily, there’s still plenty of spark contributed by the involvement of real-life jazz stars, including Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington, and pianist Aaron Bridgers. Bridgers appeared on screen as did Satchmo, whose cameo as “Wild Man” Moore was a thinly veiled characterization of his own persona.

Ellington’s Oscar-nominated score included some of his own classic works, including “Mood Indigo” and Billy Strayhorn’s “Take the ‘A’ Train”. The composer’s career had been in decline at the start of the decade, revived after his orchestra’s landmark set during the 1956 Newport Jazz Festival that led to a wave of renewed popularity including soundtracks for movies like Otto Preminger’s Anatomy of a Murder (1959), which preceded Paris Blues.

Paul Gonsalves, whose 27-chorus solo on the exuberant “Diminuendo and Crescendo in Blue” during the July ’56 festival had a direct role in reviving interest in Ellington, performed the tenor sax work “played” by Poitier on screen as Eddie Cook, while Murray McEachern provided Newman’s trombone work as Ram Bowen. (Unfortunately, none of the professional musicians on set bothered to turn Poitier’s Otto Link saxophone mouthpiece in the correct direction!)

Sidney Poitier in Paris Blues (1961)

Though saturated, this Paris Blues production photo suggests possible colors for Eddie’s on-stage suit, shirt, and tie.

What’d He Wear?

Photographed by the veteran French cinematographer, Paris Blues‘ stylish black-and-white photography prevents any chromatic identification beyond color stills taken on set, but paying attention to the details and shades indicate that Sidney Poitier cycles through three suits as Eddie: a light two-button worsted, a charcoal flannel, and this more medium-colored flannel suit that I’ll focus on for today’s post. Not only does it seem to be Eddie’s most frequently worn suit, he wears it for some of the jazziest scenes in the movie, from joining Ram on stage to kick off an Ellington-centric set that includes “Sophisticated Lady” and “Mood Indigo” to hosting an impromptu performance by Louis Armstrong as “Wild Man” Moore.

One of the few color photos of Poitier wearing this suit still makes it difficult to discern the color due to the degree of saturation, though it appears to be either dark gray or taupe with a brownish tint. The napped finish of the wool suggests a medium-weight flannel, a smart suiting for Paris’ cooler transitional seasons.

This suit is one of two from Eddie’s closet with a three-button jacket, often worn with both top two buttons fastened. Standing at 6’2″, Poitier’s height is more compatible with the balance that a full three-button front provides.

Paul Newman and Sidney Poitier in Paris Blues (1961)

Flannel suits and raincoats are Ram and Eddie’s uniforms, though Ram’s dark, open-necked shirts are a more casual approach than Eddie’s usual shirts and ties.

Eddie’s suit jacket is tailored and detailed consistent with the era’s trends, with notch lapels, padded shoulders, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, and short double vents.

The unique gauntlet cuff—or “turnback” cuff—is a neo-Edwardian detail that underwent a renaissance on men’s tailoring in the early ’60s, as seen in movies like Breakfast at Tiffany’s and on Sean Connery’s dinner jackets as James Bond; thus, you can read more about how 007 sported them at Bond Suits. Poitier’s suit jacket sleeves are finished with just a single button in addition to the turned-back cuff.

Sidney Poitier and Joanne Woodward in Paris Blues (1961)

During the early scenes where Eddie and Ram first meet Lillian and Connie during a set at Club 33, Eddie wears a light tonal shirt and tie, suggested by color photography to be a cream-colored combination with the tie a gently darker and warmer shade of yellow than the shirt.

The shirt has a semi-spread collar with double (French) cuffs fastened with a set of gold oblong links, each accented with a long dark stone. His skinny tie is textured with subtle imperfect slubbing suggesting shantung silk, and he holds it in place with an askew tie clip.

Sidney Poitier and Diahann Carroll in Paris Blues (1961)

When Wild Man arrives at the club several days later, Eddie is dressed to jam in a dark monochromatic shirt-and-tie combination decades before Regis took it mainstream. The black shirt has more of a point collar than its spread-collared predecessor, though the sleeves are also rigged with French cuffs. The tie is likely also black.

Sidney Poitier and Paul Newman in Paris Blues (1961)

Eddie and Ram welcome “Wild Man” Moore to Club 33.

Eddie removes his jacket for much of this performance, showing us more of the suit’s matching single forward-pleated trousers. Finished with plain-hemmed bottoms, these trousers have straight pockets along the side seams and jetted back pockets, with a button to close the right-side pocket.

Despite the loops, he wears them without a belt, relying on the excellent tailoring and the button-closed pointed tab on his waistband to keep them up during his energetic stage performances. (Many musicians have also made a habit of eschewing belts, lest the metal buckles scratch the backs of their instruments.)

Louis Armstrong and Sidney Poitier in Paris Blues (1961)

Eddie and Wild Man’s jazz-off.

Eddie’s shoes appear to be black leather cap-toe derbies, worn with dark—again, likely black—socks.

Sidney Poitier and Diahann Carroll in Paris Blues (1961)

Diahann Carroll and Sidney Poitier in Paris Blues (1961)

Diahann Carroll and Sidney Poitier grace the cover of this August 1961 issue of Ebony. Note that his clothing echoes his costume from this scene.

Outside the club, Eddie still takes a jazzy approach to this suit with a starkly contrasting black shirt and a tie so light it can only be white, worn during a daytime date with Connie as the couple discusses the possibilities of a romantic future, she wanting to return to the United States while he hopes to remain in France.

Poitier was photographed wearing this shirt, tie, and suit under his raincoat in color images used for contemporary covers of Ebony magazine, first to promote the movie in August 1961 and then again four years later to chronicle when the real-life Poitier/Carroll romance began.

Whether slung over his shoulder or buttoned up against the weather, Eddie’s go-to outer layer is a khaki-hued knee-length raincoat made from a water-resistant gabardine. The three-button coat has raglan sleeves with plain cuffs but a short jetted slot at the end, perhaps for straps he had removed.

Rather than a single back vent, the coat has side vents that extend as high as the bottom back corner of each hip-positioned patch pocket; these pockets are covered with rectangular two-button flaps.

Sidney Poitier and Diahann Carroll in Paris Blues (1961)

The maker of Eddie’s raincoat should be easy to identify, given the glimpse we see of the patches sewn along the inside when he drapes the coat over his lap while taking Connie on a date for some much-acclaimed French onion soup. The larger top patch reads “STORM” while the patch below it carries the name “BARCLAY”, though my cursory research hasn’t yielded any results suggesting if either of these suggest a brand that would have competed with English giants Aquascutum and Burberry for rainwear supremacy during the era.

Diahann Carroll and Sidney Poitier in Paris Blues (1961)

French Onion soup is a daring choice for a date, but I applaud Connie and Eddie’s bravery.

Tucked under his left sleeve, Eddie wears a round metal-cased watch with a light-colored dial on a dark leather strap.

How to Get the Look

Sidney Poitier in Paris Blues (1961)

Sidney Poitier as Eddie Cook in Paris Blues (1961)

At its core, Sidney Poitier’s wardrobe in Paris Blues doesn’t differ much from most stylish tailoring from this timeless mid-century period, though he incorporates a few jazzy details like the neo-Edwardian gauntlet cuffs on his jacket and the monochromatic shirts and ties better suited to the club than the conference room, communicating the power of how little character-adding details can go a long way.

  • Dark gray flannel wool tailored suit:
    • Single-breasted 3-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight jetted hip pockets, 1-button turnback/”gauntlet” cuffs, and short double vents
    • Single forward-pleated trousers with belt loops, straight/on-seam side pockets, jetted back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Cream shirt with spread collar and double/French cuffs
    • Gold oblong cuff links with dark narrow stones
  • Cream shantung silk tie
  • Black leather cap-toe derby shoes
  • Black socks
  • Watch with a light-colored dial on a dark leather strap
  • Khaki gabardine 3-button raincoat with raglan sleeves, patch hip pockets (with 2-button flaps), and double vents

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

The Quote

I like to walk and I like the way you walk, and Paris is a city to walk in.

The post Paris Blues: Sidney Poitier’s Jazzy Flannel Suit appeared first on BAMF Style.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

$
0
0
Tom Wopat, Waylon Jennings, and John Schneider

Waylon Jennings, flanked by series regulars Tom Wopat and John Schneider on The Dukes of Hazzard, Episode 7.02: “Welcome, Waylon Jennings”

Vitals

Waylon Jennings, outlaw country star

Hazzard County, Georgia, Fall 1984

Series: The Dukes of Hazzard
Episode: “Welcome, Waylon Jennings” (Episode 7.02)
Air Date: September 28, 1984
Director: Bob Sweeney
Creator: Gy Waldron
Costume Supervisor: Bob Christenson

Background

After six seasons as Hazzard County’s official off-screen “balladeer”, country legend Waylon Jennings finally showed more than just his hands on the long-running series about those two celebrated good ol’ boys.

Born 84 years ago today on June 15, 1937, in the small cotton town of Littlefield, Texas, Waylon Jennings began playing music after he left high school at the age of 16. While performing and DJing at local radio stations in Texas, his talent eventually gained the attention of his fellow Texan rocker Buddy Holly—already an established star—who hired Jennings as a bassist and also arranged his first recording session. In fact, Jennings had gotten so close to Holly that he was meant to join him and Ritchie Valens on their ill-fated flight that crashed in February 1959, “the day the music died”, but he gave us his seat for J.P. “The Big Bopper” Richardson, who was fighting the flu.

“I hope your ol’ bus freezes up,” Holly quipped to Jennings before the flight, who responded with “Well, I hope your ol’ plane crashes,” a joke that would haunt Waylon for the rest of his life.

Waylon honed his talent in Phoenix, between gigs at J.D.’s and his contract with Herb Alpert, before he was recruited to Nashville to record for RCA by the “Country Gentleman” himself, Chet Atkins. He cultivated his early career in late ’60s Nashville, developing friendships with peers like Johnny Cash, Willie Nelson, and Kris Kristofferson—the foursome that would eventually form the outlaw supergroup The Highwaymen—as well as starring in his first acting role with the budget drive-in flick Nashville Rebel, and marrying the love of his life, Phoenix-born singer-songwriter Jessi Colter.

To experience Waylon during the height of this early fame, check out this fun clip from his and Jessi’s appearance on The Johnny Cash Show in March 1970:

By 1972, Waylon’s resentment of the Nashville establishment boiled over just as he and his new manager Neil Reshen were renegotiating his deal with RCA. In his memoir, Waylon recounts the climactic meeting where both teams sat in silence until Jennings got up to use the restroom, returning to find that his bio break had been interpreted as a tactic and was praised by Reshen as a “$25,000 piss” that increased the singer’s earnings while also allowing him the creative control he desired in the studio.

Waylon’s new deal lit the spark for what would become known as the “outlaw country” movement, characterized by returning to country’s rawer roots in blues, honky tonk, and rockabilly while also providing artists with the opportunity to record with the talent of their choosing. As opposed to the “rhinestone suits and new shiny cars” of Nashville’s mainstream stars, Waylon’s tougher-living crew had long hair and beards and wore what they pleased (“here I am in my damn Levis and leather jacket, hair slicked back, all cigarettes and drugs,” he wrote in his autobiography), consistent with their celebration of individual freedom.

“To us, Outlaw meant standing up for your rights, your own way of doing things,” Waylon explained in his autobiography, explaining that the description better fit the influence of unapologetic musical forebears like Hank Williams rather than actual criminals. In early ’70s Nashville, it was outside the accepted musical law for an artist to record with their own band or record music by a three-fingered drifter no one had ever heard of. Waylon and guys like Willie Nelson and Tompall Glaser changed everything.

The spark Waylon had lit when negotiating his new contract exploded into a four-alarm fire with his 1973 album Honky Tonk Heroes, almost exclusively written by the then-unknown Billy Joe Shaver. Waylon had first heard Billy Joe singing “Willy the Wandering Gypsy and Me” during Willie’s Fourth of July picnic in Dripping Springs the previous year, telling him he would be interested in more of his songs. Not one to ignore the opportunity, Billy Joe tracked Waylon down to Nashville—in the middle of a recording session with Atkins—and threatened to fight him if he wouldn’t listen to more of his songs. Given the ten-track masterpiece in July, kicked off my the rough-rocking leading title track (a particular favorite of mine), it’s safe to assume that Waylon and Billy Joe reached an understanding.

Despite Atkins’ obvious reluctance to putting out an album that contrasted so significantly from his cultivated and overly produced “Nashville Sound” meant to appeal to mainstream audiences, the rawness of Honky Tonk Heroes ironically impressed both pop and country audiences who appreciated what a reviewer for the Kansas City Star called “straight C&W minus the show biz pretension.”

The ’70s would be Waylon’s arguably most successful period, with eleven of his singles rising to the #1 spot on the Billboard U.S. country charts. By decade’s end, he began reaching even wider audiences as The Dukes of Hazzard‘s credited balladeer, providing folksy narration and a country soundtrack for the Duke boys’ hot-rodding adventures against the corrupt—and hopelessly incompetent—forces helming the fictional Hazzard County. His theme song, “Good Ol’ Boys”, easily glided to the top of the country charts and even marked Waylon’s career high on the Billboard Hot 100, peaking at #21.

The extended version of “Good Ol’ Boys” includes a verse of Waylon bemoaning that he only shows his hands and not his face on TV, referencing the shot of him strumming his Fender that opened the credits for every episode from the start of the series. Viewers may not have realized that, behind the scenes of the show, their beloved balladeer was fighting an addiction to cocaine and pills that was quickly draining his finances and health. Waylon resolved to give up drugs in the spring of 1984 and, by the time he finally appeared on screen when “Welcome, Waylon Jennings,” aired in late September, the singer was nearly six months clean.

If weakly plotted (not that The Dukes of Hazzard was ever Hitchcock), the episode provided more than just the usual excuse to ogle Catherine Bach in her Daisy Dukes or see how high Paul Baxley’s team could jump that ’69 Dodge Charger this week, as it concludes with Watasha serenading the Boar’s Nest audience with “Never Could Toe the Mark”, a single from his latest album of the same name. (Though we can’t be sure where that full band sound comes from since we only see Waylon and his guitar—and mandolin!—on stage.)

There’s some substantial retconning here, as now the Duke family evidently goes way back with Waylon to his early days as a singer to the degree that he evidently owes the success of his career to Uncle Jesse’s kindness. Luckily, that’s enough built-up goodwill that Waylon is willing to give the Dukes the benefit of the doubt when they’re framed as prime suspects in the theft of Waylon’s mobile museum full of country and western music memorabilia from Buddy Holly’s motorcycle to Willie Nelson’s ponytail.

What’d He Wear?

Like his pal and fellow Highwayman Johnny Cash, Waylon Jennings frequently dressed in black as part of his on- and off-stage look, though he was more prone to incorporating color than the famous “Man in Black”.

“We were so much alike in many ways, it was scary,” Waylon wrote in his autobiography of his friendship with Cash. “We both dressed in black, like Lash LaRue. Later, when we met Lash on the set of the Stagecoach movie, we were worried he was going to bust us for taking his style.” (Coincidentally, Jennings and LaRue shared their June 15 birthday, though LaRue was born two decades earlier.)

“If we took on the guise of cowboys, it was because we couldn’t escape the pioneer spirit, the restlessness that forces you to keep pushing at the horizon, seeing what’s over the next ridge,” Waylon wrote. “When I put the black hat on and walked to the stage, carrying my Telecaster, I was staking my own piece of land where the buffalo roam. Don’t fuck with me, was what we were saying.”

His cowboy image firmly established, Waylon also describes an instance of wearing “my regulation black hat and vest and boots,” often contrasting his outlaw garb with the rhinestone-clad stars of Nashville establishment, a dichotomy masterfully explored in his 1975 hit single “Are You Sure Hank Done It This Way?”

Aside from Nashville Rebel, produced during his “clean-cut” RCA era in the ’60s, Hoss never saw much prominent time on screen in scripted movies or TV. Naturally, it was The Dukes of Hazzard that allowed Waylon to showcase his personality and appearance as he cameoed as himself across an entire episode dedicated to his guest-starring role. For six seasons leading up to the episode, viewers who didn’t know better only saw his mid-section as he strummed his Fender, seeing only the rolled-up sleeves of his burgundy shirt, a black leather vest, and blue jeans.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

For six seasons, this was as much of Waylon Jennings as ever appeared on screen during The Dukes of Hazzard.

When Waylon Jennings was finally welcomed to Hazzard County behind the wheel of his mobile museum, he was intentionally dressed more to match his black-on-black image (coincidentally, he also cut an album titled Black on Black in 1982) as seen on the cover of albums like Are You Ready for the Country? and Waylon and Company.

Tom Wopat and Waylon Jennings on the set of The Dukes of Hazzard

Tom Wopat laughs between takes with Waylon Jennings during Hoss’ guest appearance on The Dukes of Hazzard, 1984.

The black long-sleeved shirt is the same snap-button style that’s been long associated with cowboys since the snap-closure was developed by Rockmount Ranchwear founder Jack Weil in the early 20th century to allow riders’ shirts to easily break away rather than tearing or snagging should their wearer get caught on a fence or other obstacle (per Blue Owl). Waylon recounts in his memoir how he had already started replacing drugs with food as his overindulgence of choice, so the already tight-fitting shirt seems to be pulled a little tighter against the 47-year-old star’s midsection.

Consistent with the classic snap-front “cowboy shirt”, Waylon’s black shirt has the reinforced shoulder yokes with Western-style points. He keeps the top three black-finished snaps undone on the front placket, and the triple-snap cuffs are also undone and rolled up his sleeves. There are presumably two chest pockets that each close with a snap-down flap, though they’d be positioned to remain covered by Waymore’s vest.

Waylon’s black leather vest was established as an essential element of his outlaw image a decade earlier during the Honky Tonk Heroes days, echoing the fashions of motorcycle gangs like the Hell’s Angels members who provided security during his concerts. The five-button vest he wears to Hazzard County is detailed with rust-colored tooling and has two welted pockets.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

“Now I’m over 30, still wearin’ jeans,” Waylon sang on “Amanda”, the final track of his 1974 album Ramblin’ Man. A decade later and nearly 50, Hoss was still clad in denim, driving into Hazzard County with a pair of dark indigo blue jeans. Based on how frequently he mentions the brand name as part of his image in his autobiography, we can safely assume Waylon’s wearing a pair of Levi’s, even if the angles on screen never clearly indicate the signature details of the San Francisco-based outfitter such as the arcuate stitch across the back pockets or the red tag sewn against the inner seam of the back right pocket.

Waylon holds up his jeans with a black edge-stitched leather belt connected at the front through a large gold oval buckle embossed with the relief of an eagle in flight.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

Waylon, flanked by series regulars Tom Wopat and John Schneider on his right and Denver Pyle and Catherine Bach on his left.

Waylon’s penchant for cowboy boots may have stood out anywhere else, but they’re not an unusual sight in Hazzard County, where the Duke boys mastered climbing in through the windows of their ’69 Charger with cowboy boots on. Waylon wears a pair of plain black leather cowboy boots with pointed toes and raised heels.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

“Every time I look out on my driveway and see General Lee, the orange Dodge Charger they gave me with the rebel stars and bars painted on its roof and a big 01 bull’s-eyeing the door, it makes me laugh,” Waylon wrote in his autobiography. “Great car for eluding a sheriff.”

“A hat isn’t just something you wear on your head. It’s your halo,” Waylon wrote in one of the concluding paragraphs of his autobiography. He describes it further—”Black, creased Texas-style, with a silver belt around the crown”—though, aside from its color, the wide-brimmed cowboy hat he wears on The Dukes of Hazzard doesn’t quite fit this description.

Waylon’s Hazzard hat has a rounded telescope crown, which reportedly originated among cowboys working in the arid southwestern heat but would also be associated with the era’s infamous gamblers. The band is black braided leather, with a flat silver buckle on the left side and a pair of gilt crossed revolvers on the front communicating his outlaw image.

Strung around his neck, Waylon wears a pair of thin gold necklaces, one with a flat pendant and the other rigged a little higher with a filigreed cowboy boot.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

With crossed revolvers pinned to his hat band and a cowboy boot slung from his neck, everything about Waylon’s image screams “outlaw”.

Waylon wears a gold ring on each hand, a band on his right pinky and a larger diamond ring on the ring finger of his left hand. Neither appears to be the ring that Waylon recalled blues legend Jimmy Reed admiring at a party, which had been “a horseshoe ring on my finger that George Jones had given me, with a big diamond in the middle.”

On his left wrist, Waylon wears a flashy watch that appears to be the same 14-karat yellow gold Baume & Mercier quartz timepiece that he received as a gift from a friend and wore regularly until Jessi gifted him a stainless Rolex Submariner. This Baume & Mercier watch, with its gold square dial and tapered, uniquely textured link bracelet, was sold in October 2014 as part of Guernsey’s “Remembering Waylon” auction, per Invaluable and SavingCountryMusic.com.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

Waylon breaks out the mandolin for a solo during “Never Could Toe the Mark”.

For the “Never Could Toe the Mark” performance that closes out the episode, Waylon swaps out his black tooled leather vest for a lighter slate-blue vest made from a soft sueded leather and also detailed with some Western-motif etchwork.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

Though he never wears it, Waylon gives the Duke boys a mesh-backed black trucker cap, which Boss Hogg then steals to try to frame them (as he always does.) “I only gave ’em one hat, that gave ’em somethin’ to fight over,” Waylon recalls in his narration of the black cap emblazoned with his name and the famous “Flying W” logo on the front.

You can still get similar hats from the official Waylon Jennings shop as well as unofficial—and budget-friendly—alternatives from Amazon.

Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard

Waylon introduces Chekhov’s trucker hat into the plot.

Since the beginning of his outlaw period in the early ’70s, Waylon had branded himself with this “Flying W”, obviously representing his famous first name but also signifying the outlaw movement that allowed he and his colleagues to fly free.

How to Get the Look

Waylon Jennings, 1984

Waylon Jennings performing in Nashville, May 1984, dressed almost identically as he would be for his appearance on The Dukes of Hazzard later that year.

“Though he wore a black hat, he was truly one of music’s good guys,” described Rolling Stone of Waylon Jennings, the hard-living maverick who took inspiration from his friend Johnny Cash—and western star Lash LaRue—by dressing in black, appointing his look with eagle imagery and cowboy garb that established his image as the ultimate country outlaw.

  • Black Western-style snap shirt with pointed yokes, front placket, two snap-down flapped chest pockets, and triple-snap cuffs
  • Black rust-tooled leather 5-button vest with two welted pockets
  • Dark indigo selvedge denim jeans
  • Black edge-stitched leather belt with gold oval eagle-embossed buckle
  • Black leather cowboy boots
  • Black felt telescope-crown cowboy hat with black braided leather band (with gilt crossed revolvers and silver side buckle)
  • Thin gold necklace with cowboy boot pendant
  • Thin gold necklace with round flat pendant
  • Gold band pinky ring
  • Gold ring with diamond setting
  • Baume & Mercier 14-karat gold quartz watch with square gold dial on cut-textured link bracelet

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Definitely check out Waylon’s discography. As I mentioned, Honky Tonk Heroes is great—probably one of my favorite albums of all time—but, for beginners, there’s nothing wrong with starting with Waylon’s Greatest Hits, an LP in frequent rotation on my and my fiancee’s turntable.

You can also work through what a Rolling Stone readers’ poll deemed the 10 best Waylon Jennings songs… though I think the list gives “Good Ol; Boys” a little too much credit when I would’ve liked to have seen Ray Pennington’s “I’m a Ramblin’ Man” or the Jimmie Rodgers-inspired “Waymore’s Blues” ranked.

Check out Waylon slowing down the latter as he sings—and attempts to explain—it to Jessi!

If you’re in the mood, you can also check out the series. If you’re curious about The Dukes of Hazzard‘s origins, you should also try to track down Moonrunners, the low-budget 1975 B-movie starring Kiel Martin and James Mitchum as two hot-rodding cousins in the deep South running moonshine for their uncle Jesse while ducking the law in the form of Sheriff Rosco Coltrane and a portly politician… if that doesn’t already sound familiar enough, it’s also narrated and primarily scored by Waylon Jennings.

I also highly recommend Jennings’ candid 1996 autobiography, Waylon: An Autobiography, which I recently reread and served as a great resource while penning this tribute to one of my favorite artists.

The Quote

Well, doesn’t that just blow your hat in the creek?

The post Waylon Jennings on The Dukes of Hazzard appeared first on BAMF Style.

After Hours: Paul’s Day-to-Night Beige Suit

$
0
0
Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Vitals

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett, mild-mannered data processor

New York City, Spring 1985

Film: After Hours
Release Date: September 13, 1985
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Designer: Rita Ryack

Background

Friday the 13th is traditionally a day for bad luck, so it’s appropriate that Martin Scorsese’s After Hours, centered around one New Yorker’s evening of arguably bad luck, was released on Friday the 13th in September 1985.

A surreal black comedy with elements of neo-noir, After Hours begins just before 5:00 for Paul Hackett, a data processor ostensibly living the yuppie dream with his secure job and Manhattan apartment… but the job sucks, his apartment’s cramped despite no one to share it with, and he has no social life outside of training new employees. In search of any human connectivity into his life, Paul takes his dog-eared copy of Henry Miller’s Tropic of Cancer to an all-night diner. (Miller’s controversial tome would again appear in Scorsese’s 1991 remake of Cape Fear, yet another less characteristic entry in the director’s canon.)

“Different rules apply when it gets this late, you know what I mean? It’s like… after hours,” advises the cashier (Dick Miller) at another all-night diner.

Paul catches the eye of the mysterious Marcy (Patricia Arquette), who leaves him with her phone number before dashing into the night. Under the pretense of buying a paperweight from Marcy’s sculptor roommate Kiki (Linda Fiorentino), an increasingly lonely Paul calls the number and arranges to visit their studio apartment in SoHo just before midnight. Paul’s only cash, a $20 bill, glides out the window of his taxi as he rides to SoHo… portending a series of escalating events, surreal scenarios, and mysterious women as Paul attempts to make his way back to bed—either a woman’s bed or his own—and survive the chaotic night!

What’d He Wear?

Paul Hackett wears the same suit throughout After Hours, a beige business suit made from a cotton gabardine, a tightly woven fabric prone to wrinkling—even more-so after being repeatedly waterlogged—that only adds to Paul’s distressed look as the night grows more tumultuous.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

His beige suit drenched from the rain, Paul finds temporary refuge in the seedy Terminal Bar.

Gabardine suits in shades of light brown were popular alternatives to traditional American business dress by the early 1980s. Even across the pond, vaunted style icon James Bond was tailored in tan gabardine—both wool and cotton—for his travels in four of the five 007 movies produced throughout the decade, stretching across the end of Roger Moore’s tenure into Timothy Dalton’s first of two films.

The beige gabardine suit’s versatility is put to the test by the events of After Hours, as it was the same that Paul had worn to work earlier in the day. He had already been home twice by the time he dressed it back up to make his fateful venture to Marcy and Kiki’s SoHo apartment, but he still sought to wear this light suit well into the night, likely hoping to make a good impression on the woman he had met earlier… naturally unaware that he would spend the next several hours subjecting it to hard rain and layers of plaster.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Paul leaves his Madison Avenue office one evening… only to return in the same suit but a different shirt and tie—oh, and covered in plaster residue—the next morning.

The single-breasted suit jacket is cut and detailed in the prevailing style of American business suits from the mid-20th century onward, with notch lapels ending clear above a two-button front. The shoulders are padded, though not to the extremes of some “power suits” tailored for men and women during the ’80s, and the sleeves are roped at the shoulders and finished at the cuffs with four “kissing” buttons. The back is split with a long single vent, and the jacket also boasts a welted breast pocket and straight flapped hip pockets.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Paul finds a new accomplice in Gail (Catherine O’Hara), though her alliance would be one of his shortest of the evening once she suspects he’s a wanted neighborhood burglar.

Paul’s flat front suit trousers have belt loops as well as an extended tab on the waistband, which likely buttons in place under his belt. The plain-hemmed bottoms have a subtle flare, though not nearly as dramatic as was trendy during the previous decade.

Straight pockets are positioned vertically along each side seam, and there are two back pockets: an open jetted right pocket and a left pocket that closes with a single button through a gently pointed flap.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Rather than a traditional leather or even surcingle belt, Paul wears a khaki woven cotton military-style web belt with a gunmetal box-frame buckle and matching metal tip.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Complete with a Hockney print, Paul’s apartment offers the trappings of yuppie loneliness.

When we meet Paul training Lloyd (Bronson Pinchot) at the office, he’s dressed for work in a cotton twill shirt checked in a navy, magenta, and yellow tattersall against a white ground, detailed with a button-down collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs. His crimson red repp tie has narrow beige “downhill”-directional stripes, each bordered along the top with an even thinner black shadow stripe.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

After meeting Marcy and making plans to meet her, he changes into a fresh shirt, constructed of plain white cotton but detailed like his earlier shirt with its button-down collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs. He also pulls on a new tie, a plain red knitted tie with a squared bottom.

Arriving at the apartment, he finds only her roommate Kiki, clad only in her bra and a black leather skirt as she works on a papier-mâché sculpture that Paul would grow all-too-familiar with later in the night.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Splashed by papier-mâché, Paul begins unknotting his tie… sartorially signifying the transition of his evening into chaos.

An artistic error splashes papier-mâché paste onto Paul’s white shirt before Marcy even arrives, so Kiki outfits him in a black striped shirt that, in turn, looks considerably more appropriate for his nocturnal adventures to follow. Patterned with evenly spaced white pinstripes, the black shirt essentially follows the structure of his earlier two shirts with its button-down collar, barrel cuffs, placket, and button-through pocket, all fastened with black plastic buttons.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

As the desperate barmaid Julie (Teri Garr) waits at a table behind him, Paul chats with the bartender Tom (John Heard), with whom he already has more in common than either man realizes.

Interestingly, re-donning his tie—and thus reclaiming his connection to his boring, but safe, life—essentially ensures Paul’s return to freedom, as he ties it on to make a good impression on June (Verna Bloom), the eccentric sculptor dwelling in the basement of Club Berlin who ultimately proves to be his unknowing guardian back to safety.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Putting his tie back on leads Paul into the arms of June, his unlikely savior… even despite her own best efforts to entrap him.

Paul wears brown leather derby shoes, a tonally appropriate choice of footwear with his beige suit, against which black shoes would likely too harshly contrast. His dark socks appear to be black and, as we see during the brief vignette with a lonely Paul parked in front of the tube at home, are finished with the characteristic yellow toe threading that remains a signature of the Gold Toe brand.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Paul desperately tracks the passing hours of his unending night on his wristwatch, a G.I.-approved Hamilton Khaki automatic field watch that remains one of the few objects of value he miraculously doesn’t lose by the end of the night. The Khaki was the Hamilton Watch Company’s successful foray into extending the reliable field watches it manufactured for the U.S. military during World War II into the civilian market.

Paul wears a brushed steel Hamilton Khaki with a black dial detailed with luminous hands and hour markers, the latter further detailed with white Arabic numerals at each hour and an inner 24-hour index to ease the user’s ability to denote military time. (You can see the watch, as well as the gabardine suiting of Paul’s left jacket sleeve, in this screenshot.) The watch is secured to Paul’s wrist on a black ribbed nylon strap.

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

The prominent shots of Paul’s trusty Hamilton Khaki allow us to track the passing hours of his seemingly endless night in dystopian SoHo.

How to Get the Look

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Griffin Dunne as Paul Hackett in After Hours (1985)

Paul Hackett may have low expectations when he leaves his home to meet a mysterious woman one night, dressed as he would have been at work twelve hours earlier in his beige gabardine suit with a white shirt and red tie. As he’s thrust into a never-ending nocturnal adventure, he’s re-dressed in the “uniform” of a black open-neck shirt that instantly transforms his suit from banal business attire into a more exciting evening-ready ensemble.

  • Beige cotton gabardine business suit:
    • Single-breasted 2-button jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 4-button “kissing” cuffs, and long single vent
    • Flat front trousers with belt loops, extended waist tab, on-seam side pockets, jetted back-right pocket, button-flapped back-left pocket, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black white-pinstriped shirt with button-down collar, front placket, button-through breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Khaki cotton web belt with gunmetal box-frame buckle and tip
  • Brown leather derby shoes
  • Black dress socks
  • Hamilton Khaki brushed steel automatic field watch with black dial (with double-hour index) on black ribbed nylon strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. To follow Paul’s footsteps, read this extensively researched project at NYC in Film.

The Quote

I just wanted to leave my apartment, maybe meet a nice girl… and now I’ve gotta die for it?!

The post After Hours: Paul’s Day-to-Night Beige Suit appeared first on BAMF Style.

Once Upon a Time in Hollywood: Leo’s Black Airport Attire

$
0
0
Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

Vitals

Leonardo DiCaprio as Rick Dalton, re-energized movie and TV star

Rome to Los Angeles, Summer 1969

Film: Once Upon a Time in Hollywood
Release Date: July 26, 2019
Director: Quentin Tarantino
Costume Designer: Arianne Phillips

Background

I recently had the good fortune to rejoin my friend Peter Brooker on his excellent podcast, From Tailors With Love, joined by John Williams of James Bond Radio to talk about the style in Once Upon a Time… in Hollywood, Tarantino’s ode to the movie industry at the close of the 1960s.

Though Once Upon a Time in Hollywood cycles through the orbit of real-life stars like Sharon Tate, Steve McQueen, the Mamas and the Papas, and James Stacy—to name just a few—the central story focuses on the dynamic between the fictional actor Rick Dalton (Leonardo DiCaprio) and his best friend, the laconic stuntman Cliff Booth (Brad Pitt).

The movie begins with Rick coming to terms with his “washed-up” career, his desperation leading to a meeting with talent broker Marvin Schwarz (Al Pacino), who suggests spaghetti westerns as the gateway to the next phase of Rick’s career. Following Rick’s impressive performances on episodes of The F.B.I. and Lancer, Schwarz books him four back-to-back gigs in Italy, where he also meets and marries the beautiful starlet Francesca Capucci (Lorenza Izzo) as his stardom climbs to new heights.

Following six months in Europe, Rick returns to Hollywood on the fateful night of Friday, August 8, 1969, via a Pan Am jet… though not pretending to be a pilot, as Leo’s characters have been known to do. Having packed on 15 pounds due to Italian carb-loading, Rick considers having to take the next step of his life without Cliff, who he can’t afford to continue paying as the expenses of his new life’s lifestyle seem to outweigh the financial windfall of his newfound success.

As Kurt Russell narrates before the jet alights at LAX:

The only thing the two men know of for sure? Tonight, Rick and Cliff will have a good, old-fashioned drunk. Both men know once the plane touches down in El Segundo, it’ll be the end of an era for both of them. And when you come to the end of the line with a buddy who is more than a brother and a little less than a wife, getting blind drunk together is really the only way to say farewell.

What’d He Wear?

During our From Tailors With Love conversation, John had mentioned that Rick Dalton’s traveling outfit was a highlight for him, which encouraged me to take another look. As opposed to Cliff, who spends the entire day in his black T-shirt with white jeans and jacket, Rick cycles through three different outfits on Friday, August 8, beginning with this primarily black garb consisting of a black jacket, shirt, trousers, and boots, with an added touch of color only from the natty scarf knotted around his neck.

The new outfit signals Rick’s transition from his years as a washed-up Western star, when he dressed in warm shades of brown, mustard, and orange. His leather jackets and turtlenecks had been certainly contemporary to the late ’60s but not as fashion-forward as the double disco collars and paisley scarf he wears when returning stateside with renewed swagger, ready to take on the ’70s.

Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

Despite the Bloody Marys, Rick finds himself unable to relax on the plane, bothered by considering the prospects of a future sans Cliff… and by his new wife’s snoring.

The decreasing formality of the ’70s revived the popularity of neckerchiefs and scarves, now worn as sporty alternatives to traditional ties. Rick’s scarf delivers the outfit’s only significant dash of color, patterned with an electric purple, magenta, and yellow paisley print against a black silk ground.

Rick wears the top of his black shirt open to comfortably keep the scarf knotted over his neck, allowing the ends of the scarf to rakishly fall over the front of his shirt. The long-sleeved shirt is subtly contrast-stitched with white threading around the long-pointed collar, buttonholes, and via sets of two thin stripes down each side of the front.

Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

While I don’t believe the jacket and trousers are made from matching fabrics, the look portends the infamous leisure suits that lined the closets of many a disco-era gent or—perhaps to an even greater extreme—a black jumpsuit like those made famous by Elvis Presley.

Rick’s hip-length jacket has a long-pointed collar echoing the shirt layered under it, and a brass zipper with a circular pull tab would close the front if he wasn’t wearing it open. The four pockets are each covered with a flap with a drooping “dog ear” in the center that fastens closed through a gold-toned bone-shaped clasp.

The black flat front trousers have a self-suspended waistband that closes through an extended two-button tab. The plain-hemmed bottoms have a decided flare, creating a dramatic sweep over his black leather plain-toe boots s he strides through LAX.

Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

Francesca’s red jumpsuit resembles an identical item worn by Megan Draper (Jessica Paré) in the Mad Men episode “The Better Half”, set in the late ’60s. Throughout the later seasons of Mad Men, the character of Hollywood-dwelling actress Megan invited comparisons to the real Sharon Tate, particularly after she appeared on the show wearing a white T-shirt with a red star that Tate had famously worn in real life.

On the verge of new stardom at the dawn of a decade celebrating excess, Rick has also upgraded his eyewear to a proto-Elvis style of oversized Carrera 549 sunglasses, with thick brown plastic frames that flare out around the bottoms of each lens and have wide, perforated gold arms, a style that even the more practical-minded Cliff has adopted. (The King himself was reported to pick up his first famous pair of “TCB” frames from Optique Boutique in 1970, per Barnebys.)

Rick continues wearing the jewelry that was custom-made for his character, including the double-sided pendant monogrammed “R” on one side and with a Tudor rose design on the other, per costume designer Arianne Phillips’ interviews with Collider and Fashionista. In the latter, Phillips also provided background for the chunky ring Rick wears on his right pinky, explaining that “the lion pinky ring was a collaboration with Chris Call, our property master, Leo and Quentin.”

Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

Rick’s lion-relief pinky ring flashes as he sets up the vintage Hopalong Cassidy mugs behind his bar. Interestingly, Hopalong Cassidy had been the childhood book of choice for Jay Gatsby, who DiCaprio had played several years earlier.

Rick also returns stateside with an additional ring… in the form of a plain gold wedding band on the third finger of his left hand.

Under the left sleeve of Rick’s jacket and shirt, we glimpse a dark brown alligator watch strap that suggests he’s likely still wearing the subdued 18-carat yellow gold Chopard Classic manual-winding watch.

What to Imbibe

“Looks delicious, thank you,” Rick comments to the Pan Am flight attendant that serves his Bloody Mary. He’s clearly getting the first-class treatment as the stewardess even dropped in his two olives herself, while Cliff had to mix his up farther aft with a can of tomato juice and some Stoli.

Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

Rick takes a refreshing slurp of his Bloody Mary.

Having emerged sometime during the interwar era—occasionally attributed to comedian George Jessel—the Bloody Mary’s basest ingredients are vodka and tomato juice, in varying proportions and with even more varying accoutrements that range from the traditional (celery stalks and Worcestershire sauce) to the avant-garde (lobster tails and burger sliders). The glassware tends to be of the longer variety, typically highball glasses with some opting for draft or even hurricane glasses, all with considerably more volume than the rocks glass that Rick’s Bloody Mary is served in.

How to Get the Look

Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

Leonardo DiCaprio and Lorenza Izzo in Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019)

Recently gain about 15 pounds (and a wife) during a six-month sojourn in Europe? They say black is slimming, so drape yourself in fashion-forward black from head to toe, with a touch of color knotted around your neck to assuage any sinister associations.

  • Black hip-length zip-up jacket with long point collar and four flapped pockets (with gold-clasp closure)
  • Black long-sleeved shirt with white contrast-stitched long collar, buttonholes, and double stripe sets
  • Black flat-front self-suspended trousers with 2-button extended waist tab, slanted front pockets, and flared plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather plain-toe boots
  • Brown plastic oversized sunglasses with gold perforated arms
  • Gold “R”-monogrammed/Tudor rose pendant on thin gold necklace
  • Gold chunky lion-motif pinky ring
  • Gold wedding ring
  • Chopard Classic 18-carat yellow gold wristwatch with round white dial on brown alligator leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie and subscribe to From Tailors With Love!

The post Once Upon a Time in Hollywood: Leo’s Black Airport Attire appeared first on BAMF Style.

Viewing all 56 articles
Browse latest View live